try the amore mia near the central police station in old mombasa.
the service can be abit slow but the ice cream makes up for the delay.
prices from 60 shillings to 160 per scoop.
for gelato ice cream there is a shop near the mombasa railway station.
blue room is also famous fro ice cream
GiffGaff
Friday, 18 December 2009
K E N Y A Where excitement and fun are met with style
K E N Y A Where excitement and fun are met with style
Text and photos by Bizzie Frost
Most people visit Kenya to go on a safari to see the fantastic wildlife. However, there are other things to do there that are completely off the beaten track of regular tourism. On a recent visit, I went to visit a new golf course development 30 miles north of Mombasa, then went on to stay in an exclusive beach house on the island of Lamu, even further north.
Finally, I went up-country to the central highlands for a night-stop in Nanyuki in the heart of several vast wildlife ranches.
Going anywhere by road in Kenya is time-consuming and often a very uncomfortable experience as the roads are notoriously bad. However, there is a highly-developed light aviation industry with daily scheduled flights operating to most towns and game parks in Kenya.
If their schedules don’t suit you, you can always charter your own light aircraft or, even better, a helicopter to take you from door to door. After arriving in Nairobi on a Saudia flight, we flew to Mombasa. The new 18-golf course at Vipingo Ridge does not, as yet, have a hotel or anywhere to stay but there are numerous beach hotels a short drive away. It is the first project of its kind in Kenya and is in a secure, walled residential development covering 2,500 acres with its own airstrip.
The ultimate plan is for two 18 hole courses, with a club house, hotel, and apartments and houses to buy or rent. Vipingo lies half way between Mombasa and Kilifi, and the ridge is about 4 kms from the sea and rises 500 feet above sea level.
The benefit is the wonderful views towards the Indian Ocean, as well as hills inland, and a constant breeze to keep you cool. The course, designed by David Jones, is undulating and challenging and built to international standards. Full details are available on their website, including details of properties available to purchase: www.vipingoridge.com.
There is also another excellent 18-hole golf course nearby at Nyali where they have an unusual rule: if a monkey takes your ball, you have a free drop!
If a few days at a secluded beach in your own exclusive house is more your scene, it is time to head to Kizingoni Beach on Lamu Island. This is a development of 10 houses on a remote 20-acre beach plot, all built using traditional Lamu materials and methods.
To get there, you fly to Manda Island, arriving at the tiny, palm-thatched Arrivals Terminal complete with its quaint duty-free shop. There is a walk of a few hundred yards to a jetty where you are met by the Kizingoni staff and boat. It is then a 30-minute boat ride to Kizingoni Beach.
When we arrived, all the house staff were on the beach to meet us and because I have a walking disability, the gardener picked me up in a fireman’s lift and carried me to dry land!
Building houses in such a remote spot is not easy because all the building materials and staff have to get there the same way that we did – by boat. There are no vehicles on Lamu Island, save for the District Commissioner’s Land Rover, an ambulance, a donkey ambulance, and a tractor. Building materials are off-loaded from dhows (boats that have been on the East African coast for centuries) by a chain of workers, and then carried to the site by men or donkeys. Everything about the houses is eco-friendly: electricity is generated by windmills and solar power. If you can’t live without air-conditioning or your hair dryer, this might not be the place for you! Water is from their own bore hole.
We stayed in Kazkazi House, named after the northerly monsoon trade wind that blows in the summer months. For centuries, it has blown trading dhows from India and Oman down to the East African coast. The house is built in a “U” shape around a central 16-meter pool, and has six en-suite bedrooms. The style of all the houses is the simple, coastal open-plan style, yet luxurious and with some beautiful furniture that has been imported from Java by the designer, Leslie Duckworth.
You sleep under a ceiling fan and mosquito net, with open windows to let in the sea breeze. There are concessions to modernity in that there is Wi-Fi connection and satellite television in a discrete TV room. Mobile phone signal is there if you wander to find the right spot! Among the resident staff is an excellent cook and most meals include fresh seafood and a variety of exotic home-made ice-creams.
Once you have swum up and down the pool, relaxed on your sun-lounger and unwound, there are other activities available: walks on the beach, fishing, kayaking, snorkling, and scuba diving being among them. There is also a traditional dhow for hire to take you for a “sun-downer” sail. A visit to Lamu town (by boat!) is a must and Kizingoni will provide you with a well-informed local guide. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and over the years has not lost its unique atmosphere, and new buildings all conform to the old style. The port of Lamu has existed for at least a thousand years and it is worth reading up its history.
The area is predominantly Muslim, so it is important to be properly covered and not wear revealing beach clothes. The quayside has constant boat traffic bringing people and goods to the island. Streets are very narrow and bustling with activity with lots of donkey traffic. There are two museums and several cafes, restaurants and hotels (if Kizingoni is too pricey for you!). On the other hand, if money is no object, you could buy Kazkazi House which is for sale. Enquire via www.kizingonibeach.com.
After Lamu, we flew back to Nairobi and then continued up to Nanyuki in a brand new Eurocopter, recently flown up from South Africa. Nanyuki is in the up-country Kenya highlands at an altitude of 6,500 feet and is close to some privately owned and very large wildlife conservancies. In complete contrast to the heat and humidity of the coast, it is a cool 22 degrees celcius, dropping to a chilly 10 degrees at night when you need roaring log fires. We landed on the front lawn of Mukima House, a farmhouse that was built in the 1940s. Surrounded by 360 acres of land, the house faces directly towards Mt. Kenya, Kenya’s highest mountain.
It has recently been refurbished and now has eight en-suite bedrooms and is fully staffed. It is the sort of place that you could go to with two or three families and completely unwind in your “home from home”. There is a swimming pool (rather chilly!), table tennis, sauna and massage room, a tennis court, walking, bird watching, and a dam where you can go boating and fishing. Other activities, such as golf, horse riding, trout fishing, and visits to the wildlife conservancies can be arranged. And for those who can’t live without their mobile phones, computers and TV – that is all there too! If you fall in love with Mukima House, it is for sale – at a price! On the next-door 150-acre plot, there is a development of 10 bungalows, designed to be in keeping with the environment, surrounded by an electric fence for security. These are on the market at around 380,000 pounds. Enquire via www.mukimakenya.com.
How to get there
Saudia flies twice weekly to Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta International Airport.
Flights to Mombasa, Lamu and Nanyuki are available on Kenya Airways, Fly540 or JetLink, from Jomo Kenyatta Airport, and Air Kenya flies to the same destinations from nearby Wilson Airport – websites can be found via google. Helicopters can be booked through www.flyladylori.com
Mombasa accommodation and transport for golf can be arranged through Mike Kirkland at mike@southerncrosssafaris.com or www.southerncrosssafaris.com. – SG
http://www.saudigazette.com.sa/index.cfm?method=home.regcon&contentID=2009121657206
Text and photos by Bizzie Frost
Most people visit Kenya to go on a safari to see the fantastic wildlife. However, there are other things to do there that are completely off the beaten track of regular tourism. On a recent visit, I went to visit a new golf course development 30 miles north of Mombasa, then went on to stay in an exclusive beach house on the island of Lamu, even further north.
Finally, I went up-country to the central highlands for a night-stop in Nanyuki in the heart of several vast wildlife ranches.
Going anywhere by road in Kenya is time-consuming and often a very uncomfortable experience as the roads are notoriously bad. However, there is a highly-developed light aviation industry with daily scheduled flights operating to most towns and game parks in Kenya.
If their schedules don’t suit you, you can always charter your own light aircraft or, even better, a helicopter to take you from door to door. After arriving in Nairobi on a Saudia flight, we flew to Mombasa. The new 18-golf course at Vipingo Ridge does not, as yet, have a hotel or anywhere to stay but there are numerous beach hotels a short drive away. It is the first project of its kind in Kenya and is in a secure, walled residential development covering 2,500 acres with its own airstrip.
The ultimate plan is for two 18 hole courses, with a club house, hotel, and apartments and houses to buy or rent. Vipingo lies half way between Mombasa and Kilifi, and the ridge is about 4 kms from the sea and rises 500 feet above sea level.
The benefit is the wonderful views towards the Indian Ocean, as well as hills inland, and a constant breeze to keep you cool. The course, designed by David Jones, is undulating and challenging and built to international standards. Full details are available on their website, including details of properties available to purchase: www.vipingoridge.com.
There is also another excellent 18-hole golf course nearby at Nyali where they have an unusual rule: if a monkey takes your ball, you have a free drop!
If a few days at a secluded beach in your own exclusive house is more your scene, it is time to head to Kizingoni Beach on Lamu Island. This is a development of 10 houses on a remote 20-acre beach plot, all built using traditional Lamu materials and methods.
To get there, you fly to Manda Island, arriving at the tiny, palm-thatched Arrivals Terminal complete with its quaint duty-free shop. There is a walk of a few hundred yards to a jetty where you are met by the Kizingoni staff and boat. It is then a 30-minute boat ride to Kizingoni Beach.
When we arrived, all the house staff were on the beach to meet us and because I have a walking disability, the gardener picked me up in a fireman’s lift and carried me to dry land!
Building houses in such a remote spot is not easy because all the building materials and staff have to get there the same way that we did – by boat. There are no vehicles on Lamu Island, save for the District Commissioner’s Land Rover, an ambulance, a donkey ambulance, and a tractor. Building materials are off-loaded from dhows (boats that have been on the East African coast for centuries) by a chain of workers, and then carried to the site by men or donkeys. Everything about the houses is eco-friendly: electricity is generated by windmills and solar power. If you can’t live without air-conditioning or your hair dryer, this might not be the place for you! Water is from their own bore hole.
We stayed in Kazkazi House, named after the northerly monsoon trade wind that blows in the summer months. For centuries, it has blown trading dhows from India and Oman down to the East African coast. The house is built in a “U” shape around a central 16-meter pool, and has six en-suite bedrooms. The style of all the houses is the simple, coastal open-plan style, yet luxurious and with some beautiful furniture that has been imported from Java by the designer, Leslie Duckworth.
You sleep under a ceiling fan and mosquito net, with open windows to let in the sea breeze. There are concessions to modernity in that there is Wi-Fi connection and satellite television in a discrete TV room. Mobile phone signal is there if you wander to find the right spot! Among the resident staff is an excellent cook and most meals include fresh seafood and a variety of exotic home-made ice-creams.
Once you have swum up and down the pool, relaxed on your sun-lounger and unwound, there are other activities available: walks on the beach, fishing, kayaking, snorkling, and scuba diving being among them. There is also a traditional dhow for hire to take you for a “sun-downer” sail. A visit to Lamu town (by boat!) is a must and Kizingoni will provide you with a well-informed local guide. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and over the years has not lost its unique atmosphere, and new buildings all conform to the old style. The port of Lamu has existed for at least a thousand years and it is worth reading up its history.
The area is predominantly Muslim, so it is important to be properly covered and not wear revealing beach clothes. The quayside has constant boat traffic bringing people and goods to the island. Streets are very narrow and bustling with activity with lots of donkey traffic. There are two museums and several cafes, restaurants and hotels (if Kizingoni is too pricey for you!). On the other hand, if money is no object, you could buy Kazkazi House which is for sale. Enquire via www.kizingonibeach.com.
After Lamu, we flew back to Nairobi and then continued up to Nanyuki in a brand new Eurocopter, recently flown up from South Africa. Nanyuki is in the up-country Kenya highlands at an altitude of 6,500 feet and is close to some privately owned and very large wildlife conservancies. In complete contrast to the heat and humidity of the coast, it is a cool 22 degrees celcius, dropping to a chilly 10 degrees at night when you need roaring log fires. We landed on the front lawn of Mukima House, a farmhouse that was built in the 1940s. Surrounded by 360 acres of land, the house faces directly towards Mt. Kenya, Kenya’s highest mountain.
It has recently been refurbished and now has eight en-suite bedrooms and is fully staffed. It is the sort of place that you could go to with two or three families and completely unwind in your “home from home”. There is a swimming pool (rather chilly!), table tennis, sauna and massage room, a tennis court, walking, bird watching, and a dam where you can go boating and fishing. Other activities, such as golf, horse riding, trout fishing, and visits to the wildlife conservancies can be arranged. And for those who can’t live without their mobile phones, computers and TV – that is all there too! If you fall in love with Mukima House, it is for sale – at a price! On the next-door 150-acre plot, there is a development of 10 bungalows, designed to be in keeping with the environment, surrounded by an electric fence for security. These are on the market at around 380,000 pounds. Enquire via www.mukimakenya.com.
How to get there
Saudia flies twice weekly to Nairobi’s Jomo Kenyatta International Airport.
Flights to Mombasa, Lamu and Nanyuki are available on Kenya Airways, Fly540 or JetLink, from Jomo Kenyatta Airport, and Air Kenya flies to the same destinations from nearby Wilson Airport – websites can be found via google. Helicopters can be booked through www.flyladylori.com
Mombasa accommodation and transport for golf can be arranged through Mike Kirkland at mike@southerncrosssafaris.com or www.southerncrosssafaris.com. – SG
http://www.saudigazette.com.sa/index.cfm?method=home.regcon&contentID=2009121657206
Thursday, 17 December 2009
Monday, 14 December 2009
Mombasa transport TukTUK
The cheapest and easily accesible mode of transport in mombasa is the TUKTUK.
most journeys cost only 50 shillings (less than 50 pence)
similar art seen on matatus is now used on tuktuks as well to make them attractive and generate more business.
most journeys cost only 50 shillings (less than 50 pence)
similar art seen on matatus is now used on tuktuks as well to make them attractive and generate more business.
we repair broken hearts - mombasa art
---
# How a Mombasa Graffiti Artist is Healing Broken Hearts with Art
If you have ever walked along the streets of Mombasa, Kenya, you might have noticed a striking graffiti on a wall that reads: "We repair broken hearts - Mombasa art". The message is simple, yet powerful, and it has captured the attention of many locals and tourists alike. But who is behind this mysterious graffiti, and what is the story behind it?
The artist is a young man who goes by the name of Kintsugi, a reference to the Japanese art of repairing broken pottery with gold. He says he was inspired by his own experience of heartbreak, and how he found solace in art. "I was in a relationship with a girl who cheated on me and left me for another guy. I was devastated and depressed. I felt like my heart was shattered into pieces," he says. "But then I discovered kintsugi, and I realized that there is beauty in brokenness, and that I can use art to heal myself and others."
Kintsugi started painting graffiti on walls around Mombasa, using bright colors and positive messages to uplift people who are going through hard times. He says he chose the phrase "We repair broken hearts" because he wanted to create a sense of community and solidarity among people who have suffered from heartbreak. "I want people to know that they are not alone, and that there is hope and happiness after pain. I want them to see that their scars are not something to be ashamed of, but something to be proud of, because they show their strength and resilience," he says.
Kintsugi says he has received a lot of positive feedback from people who have seen his graffiti, and some have even contacted him to share their stories and thank him for his art. He says he feels happy and fulfilled when he sees how his art has touched people's lives. "I feel like I am doing something meaningful and helpful. I feel like I am making a difference in the world, one heart at a time," he says.
Kintsugi hopes to continue his graffiti project and spread his message of healing and hope to more people. He also dreams of opening his own art studio and teaching others how to express themselves through art. He says he believes that art is a powerful tool for personal and social transformation, and that everyone can benefit from it. "Art is not only for the talented or the privileged. Art is for everyone. Art is for the broken-hearted," he says.
Source: Conversation with Bing, 22/01/2024
(1) Kintsugi artists | A Kintsugi Life. https://akintsugilife.com/kintsugi-artists/.
(2) Back for good: the fine art of repairing broken things. https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2021/aug/22/back-for-good-the-fine-art-of-repairing-broken-things.
(3) 8 Famous Artists Who Turned Heartbreak into Art | Artsy. https://www.artsy.net/article/artsy-editorial-8-famous-artists-turned-heartbreak-art.
Thursday, 19 November 2009
Lamu Cultural Festival
Lamu Cultural Festival
Lamu Old Town is a unique and rare historical living heritage with more than 700 years of continuous settlement. In 2001, it was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Since then the Lamu Cultural Promotion Group, a community based group, has been organizing an annual cultural festival to promote and preserve the unique Swahili heritage of the Lamu Archipelago. With support from international embassies, Kenyan authorities and local stakeholders, the Lamu Cultural Promotion Group continues to successfully showcase Swahili culture and traditions through this landmark event.
The three day festival will showcase traditional dances (ngomas), historical masterpieces, which have been an important _expression of neighbourhood rivalries. Besides competitive ngomas, deep seated animosity among Lamu residents in the past was settled through competitions on water and land: Kiswahili poetry competitions, donkey races, dhow races, and these will be some of the highlights of the festival. There will be displays of traditionalhandicraft, henna painting, Swahili bridal ceremony and a Swahili food bazaar. The festival offers a modern sample of these time-honoured traditions against a rich backdrop of the beauty and splendour of the Lamu archipelago.
This year’s festival will also feature a renowned lute player from Morocco, Omar Mazroui, adding a touch of Arab-North African Islamic influence, modern taarab groups from Zanzibar: ‘East African Melody’ and the ‘Sinachuki Kidumbak’, the popular Swahili taarab musician, Juma Bhallo, from Mombasa, and the young dancers/acrobats from the street children rehabilitation programme ‘Kuruka Maisha’.
An exhibition of photographs on Lamu and the Swahili culture, by the renowned photographer, Nigel Pavitt, will be on display in Lamu Fort.
Lamu offers accommodation to suit all pockets. Flying packages are listed herebelow. Transport by road to Lamu is completely safe. Public transport from Mombasa leaves
daily, with about seven buses at different times during the day. The journey to Mokowe on the mainland takes six to seven hours, followed by a half an hour boat ride to Lamu.
daily, with about seven buses at different times during the day. The journey to Mokowe on the mainland takes six to seven hours, followed by a half an hour boat ride to Lamu.
Programme
Fri. 18 Nov.13:00 – 16:00
Jahazi dhow race
20:30 – 22:30
Traditional dances along the seafront
22:30 – 00:30
Traditional dances on stage by Lamu Fort (Mkunguni square)
Sat. 19 Nov.
08 :00 – 16 :00
Traditional skills and craft displays (ironsmith, woodcarving, grinding, pounding, dhow building, henna painting, swahili embroidery, mat making, bao games, leather works)
(Kihaji Grounds)
09:00 – 10 :00
Donkey race (in front of Lamu Museum)
Donkey race (in front of Lamu Museum)
10:00 – 11:00
Talk on ‘Identity and tradition of the Swahili people’ by
National Museums of Kenya
Talk on ‘Identity and tradition of the Swahili people’ by
National Museums of Kenya
11:00 – 12:00
Canoe Race
Canoe Race
14:00 – 16:00
Mashua dhow race and swimming finals
Mashua dhow race and swimming finals
16:30 – 18:00
Prize giving (Mkunguni square)
Prize giving (Mkunguni square)
18:30 – 19:00
Swahili food bazaar (Sunsail Hotel verandah)
Swahili food bazaar (Sunsail Hotel verandah)
20:00 – 22:00
Swahili bridal ceremony (Lamu Fort)
Traditional dances (Mkunguni square and along the seafront)
Swahili bridal ceremony (Lamu Fort)
Traditional dances (Mkunguni square and along the seafront)
22:30
Kuruka Maisha dancers, Omar Mazroui (Arabo-Andalusian, sufi musician from Morocco), Sinachuki Kidumbak and East African Melody (from Zanzibar) (Mkunguni square)
Sun. 20 Nov.Kuruka Maisha dancers, Omar Mazroui (Arabo-Andalusian, sufi musician from Morocco), Sinachuki Kidumbak and East African Melody (from Zanzibar) (Mkunguni square)
09:00 – 12:00
Traditional skills and craft displays (Kihaji Grounds)
22:00
Swahili taarab by the musician, Juma Bhallo, from Mombasa (Mkunguni square).
Other attractions:
- Lamu Museum, exhibiting Swahili culture and the mainland’s non-Swahili groups
- Lamu Fort, dating back to 1821, having been built by the Sultan of Oman shortly after Lamu’s victory over Pate and Mombasa in the battle of Shela
- German Post Office Museum
- Swahili House Museum
- Takwa National Monument on Manda Island (a settlement dating back to AD 1500, with ruins of a Great Mosque and a pillar tomb)
- Ruins of Shanga, an 8th century Swahili settlement, on Pate Island, containing remains of the coral walls of 160 houses, two palaces, three mosques and hundreds of tombs
- The early Swahili settlement of Pate, once a power in the region
- Numerous sites and monuments that showcase Swahili civilization at its height in the 15th century
- Donkey sanctuary for the old beasts of burden
- The dhow making village of Matondoni
A wonderful treat for those who wish to savour the unique architectural and cultural splendour of East Africa’s earliest seaport.
Harsita Waters, Arts and Culture CoordinatorAlliance Francaise de Nairobi
Tel. +254-20-340054/79
Tuesday, 3 November 2009
Bolt humbled by four-legged rival
Breaking News, Kenya, Africa, Politics, Business, Sports, Blogs, Photos, Videos - Bolt humbled by four-legged rival
he world’s fastest man has met something he won’t be able to outrun — his newly adopted cheetah cub.
he world’s fastest man has met something he won’t be able to outrun — his newly adopted cheetah cub.
Usain Bolt and Prime Minister Raila Odinga on Monday launched a new programme to protect wildlife in a partnership with Kenya Wildlife Service.
Mr Bolt and Mr Odinga each adopted animals from the famous orphanage in announcing the new endowment fund.
Kenya Wildlife Service is seeking to raise $100 million (Sh7.5 billion) from the fund by 2020 for wildlife and environment conservation efforts.
Mr Bolt, the Jamaican track star who holds the world record for fastest time in the 100-metre sprint, adopted a fitting pet. The cheetah is the world’s fastest mammal. He named the three-month-old cheetah “Lightning Bolt” to cheers.
And it came as no surprise when Mr Odinga named his adopted eight-month-old lion cub, “Agwambo” to another round of applause.
Another track star, Britain’s former 110-metre hurdles world record holder, Mr Colin Jackson, adopted another animal known for its leaping ability — a four-year-old eland.
And Mr Odinga’s daughter, Winnie, adopted an eight-month-old lioness.
The adoption process seems to have left Mr Bolt a changed man.
Fear no more
“I will fear no more the wild animals,” he said as he cuddled his new pet. Mr Bolt had expressed a fear of wildlife before he travelled to Kenya as an environmental ambassador for the Zeitz Foundation.
For his part, Mr Odinga said Kenya’s wildlife was under severe threat of extinction. The PM praised the Zeitz Foundation for using sports in their conservation initiatives.
The Zeitz Foundation was launched in Kenya on Friday.
Mr Odinga used the event to criticise those who have degazetted Kenyan forests saying it had hastened the human and wildlife conflicts.
He said the government has moved swiftly to protect the remaining forest cover and affirmed that those who will be affected by the wildlife be compensated adequately.
Thursday, 29 October 2009
The East African - Saving Lamu island
The East African - Saving Lamu island
Lamu, regarded as an important religious centre in East Africa, risks losing its World Heritage Site status due to massive purchase of land and ancient buildings by investors.
These investors have put up posh maisonettes and bungalows unlike the traditional Swahili type of houses which are among the unique features of the town — something that has conservationists worrying.
“If foreigners take over, a different culture will set in and erode the heritage of this historical island,” said National Museums of Kenya director general Idle Farah
He said although NMK and Lamu County Council have been sensitising the islanders on the need for them to stop selling their properties the problem still persists.
But according to a Lamu civic leader Hassan Albeity, they should encourage the islanders to lease their houses for, say, five to 20 years rather than sell them off.
The situation in Lamu is so different from that in Zanzibar.
According to Zanzibar Stone Town Conservation and Development Authority director general Issa Makarani, a property owner is not allowed to construct posh houses on the heritage site.
He noted that seven years ago the government banned the construction of more tourist hotels on the island to prevent the erosion of the world heritage site.
Mr Makarani said it was only the Conservation and Development Authority which has the powers of issuing licenses on reconstruction of buildings, saying the law has been effective in barring foreigners from turning ancient properties into luxurious homes.
“We don’t allow a foreigner to purchase buildings within the world heritage sites as we want to maintain our cultural values,” the Zanzibar official said.
We are saddened by what is happening in Lamu since when the foreigners are not stopped from buying the properties then the historical island’s culture will be gone forever,” he added.
Thousands of people from the region and beyond flock the town for the famous Maulidi festival that are held during the third month of the Muslim calendar.
Wednesday, 21 October 2009
DEVASTATED BY DROUGHT, VULNERABLE COMMUNITIES IN AFRICA’S HORN NOW BRACE FOR EL NIÑO FLOODS
Vulnerable communities in the Horn of Africa, in the midst of one of
the worst droughts in a decade, are bracing for yet another potential huge challenge in coming months: floods
triggered by the climatic phenomenon El Niño and associated mudslides, crop destruction, water-borne
diseases and disrupted road networks. Countries most at risk of flash floods are Kenya, Somalia, Tanzania
and Uganda, but Djibouti, Eritrea and Ethiopia could also be affected.
“More than 23 million people in pastoral, agricultural and sub-urban communities--as well internally
displaced people and refugees in the region--are reeling from the impact of water and food shortages, pasture
scarcity, conflict and insecurity. We continue to need massive help to deal with this. An additional shock in
this intersection of human vulnerabilities would be devastating,” said United Nations Emergency Relief
Coordinator and Under-Secretary-General for Humanitarian Affairs, John Holmes. UNICEF estimates that in
2009, 500,000 children under five years of age will suffer life-threatening severe acute malnutrition in
Africa’s Horn.
United Nations and non-governmental humanitarian organizations are working in support of governments
across the region on an urgent footing to develop or fine tune contingency plans in anticipation of the impact
of El Niño on vulnerable communities already stretched to the breaking point.
“I am encouraged by the sense of urgency shown by humanitarian organizations, governments and
communities in their efforts to prepare. While we cannot prevent these climatic shocks, we certainly can
mitigate their disastrous effects through forward planning and the right funding from the donor community,”
said John Holmes.
In Kenya, some 750,000 persons could be affected by floods and mudslides. Of these, 150,000 are refugees
who could be forced to relocate to higher ground. In Somalia, some 450,000 persons in the Juba and Shabelle
river basins could be affected. Uganda has elaborated flood contingency and evacuation plans, and UNICEF
is preparing to give immediate support to 25,000 persons. In Tanzania, an estimated 50,000 persons could be
directly affected if flood patterns mirror those of 2006-2007. Potentially flood affected people in Djibouti
might be exposed to new water-borne diseases or experience a deterioration of the ongoing cholera outbreak.
Although the humanitarian community is undertaking flood contingency planning, funding and humanitarian
access remain the most significant constraints.
The big problem of the Horn for now remains the drought. In some drought-affected areas, enhanced El Niño
rains will be welcomed as pasture will regenerate and water reserves will be replenished. However, even with
this help, it is not expected that the widespread food insecurity in the region will show signs of improving
until the harvesting season in early 2010.
The report Horn of Africa Alert – October 2009 is available online: http://ochaonline.un.org/rocea
the worst droughts in a decade, are bracing for yet another potential huge challenge in coming months: floods
triggered by the climatic phenomenon El Niño and associated mudslides, crop destruction, water-borne
diseases and disrupted road networks. Countries most at risk of flash floods are Kenya, Somalia, Tanzania
and Uganda, but Djibouti, Eritrea and Ethiopia could also be affected.
“More than 23 million people in pastoral, agricultural and sub-urban communities--as well internally
displaced people and refugees in the region--are reeling from the impact of water and food shortages, pasture
scarcity, conflict and insecurity. We continue to need massive help to deal with this. An additional shock in
this intersection of human vulnerabilities would be devastating,” said United Nations Emergency Relief
Coordinator and Under-Secretary-General for Humanitarian Affairs, John Holmes. UNICEF estimates that in
2009, 500,000 children under five years of age will suffer life-threatening severe acute malnutrition in
Africa’s Horn.
United Nations and non-governmental humanitarian organizations are working in support of governments
across the region on an urgent footing to develop or fine tune contingency plans in anticipation of the impact
of El Niño on vulnerable communities already stretched to the breaking point.
“I am encouraged by the sense of urgency shown by humanitarian organizations, governments and
communities in their efforts to prepare. While we cannot prevent these climatic shocks, we certainly can
mitigate their disastrous effects through forward planning and the right funding from the donor community,”
said John Holmes.
In Kenya, some 750,000 persons could be affected by floods and mudslides. Of these, 150,000 are refugees
who could be forced to relocate to higher ground. In Somalia, some 450,000 persons in the Juba and Shabelle
river basins could be affected. Uganda has elaborated flood contingency and evacuation plans, and UNICEF
is preparing to give immediate support to 25,000 persons. In Tanzania, an estimated 50,000 persons could be
directly affected if flood patterns mirror those of 2006-2007. Potentially flood affected people in Djibouti
might be exposed to new water-borne diseases or experience a deterioration of the ongoing cholera outbreak.
Although the humanitarian community is undertaking flood contingency planning, funding and humanitarian
access remain the most significant constraints.
The big problem of the Horn for now remains the drought. In some drought-affected areas, enhanced El Niño
rains will be welcomed as pasture will regenerate and water reserves will be replenished. However, even with
this help, it is not expected that the widespread food insecurity in the region will show signs of improving
until the harvesting season in early 2010.
The report Horn of Africa Alert – October 2009 is available online: http://ochaonline.un.org/rocea
Mo Ibrahim Foundation announces decision not to award Ibrahim Prize this year
Mo Ibrahim Foundation announces decision not to award Ibrahim Prize this year
Foundation to hold governance forum in Dar Es Salaam where African stakeholders will gather to discuss
key issues and opportunities for progress
In announcing the decision of the Ibrahim Prize for Achievement in African Leadership Prize Committee,
the Board of the Mo Ibrahim Foundation released the following statement from the Prize Committee:
“The Mo Ibrahim Foundation is committed to supporting great African leadership that will improve the
economic and social prospects of the people of Africa. The Foundation’s focus is the promotion of good
governance in Africa and the recognition of excellence in African leadership.
The Prize Committee welcomed the progress made on governance in some African countries while noting
with concern recent setbacks in other countries.
This year the Prize Committee has considered some credible candidates. However, after in-depth review,
the Prize Committee could not select a winner.”
Mo Ibrahim, the founder of the Mo Ibrahim Foundation, said:
“The Prize Committee is independent of the Board. It is the Prize Committee’s decision not to award a
Prize this year and we entirely respect it. We made clear at the launch of the Foundation that there may
be years when there is no winner.
This Foundation was established to stimulate debate around, and improve the quality of, African
governance. Although there is much focus on the prize, the Foundation is engaged in many other
activities to help improve governance. Central to these is the Ibrahim Index of African Governance, which
the Foundation published earlier this month, which gives powerful information to all citizens about the
performance of their countries.”
The Board of the Mo Ibrahim Foundation also confirmed that despite the fact that there is no laureate this
year, the planned events in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania on 14 and 15 November 2009 will go ahead.
These events will include a discussion forum that will bring together stakeholders to discuss issues that
are key to Africa’s future progress including climate justice, agriculture and food security and regional
economic integration. The aim of the forum is to articulate shared aspirations and a common vision for the
future around these issues.
Mo Ibrahim said of the forum: “At a time when, we are seeing overall progress in Africa, despite worrying
setbacks in some countries, it is vital that African stakeholders and institutions come together to look for a
way forward on the major challenges facing the African continent. I look forward to the discussions
around this urgent African agenda.”
The forum will include the following sessions:
o Climate change and climate justice chaired by President Festus Mogae. President Mogae
is one of United Nations Secretary-General, Ban Ki-moon’s four special envoys on
climate change.
o Agriculture and food security, chaired by H.E. Mr Kofi Annan. Mr Annan is Chairman of
the Board of the Alliance for a Green Revolution in Africa (AGRA).
o Regional Economic Integration, chaired by H.E. Mr Abdoulie Janneh. Mr Janneh is
Secretary-General of the United Nations Economic Commission for Africa.
http://www.moibrahimfoundation.org/en
Foundation to hold governance forum in Dar Es Salaam where African stakeholders will gather to discuss
key issues and opportunities for progress
In announcing the decision of the Ibrahim Prize for Achievement in African Leadership Prize Committee,
the Board of the Mo Ibrahim Foundation released the following statement from the Prize Committee:
“The Mo Ibrahim Foundation is committed to supporting great African leadership that will improve the
economic and social prospects of the people of Africa. The Foundation’s focus is the promotion of good
governance in Africa and the recognition of excellence in African leadership.
The Prize Committee welcomed the progress made on governance in some African countries while noting
with concern recent setbacks in other countries.
This year the Prize Committee has considered some credible candidates. However, after in-depth review,
the Prize Committee could not select a winner.”
Mo Ibrahim, the founder of the Mo Ibrahim Foundation, said:
“The Prize Committee is independent of the Board. It is the Prize Committee’s decision not to award a
Prize this year and we entirely respect it. We made clear at the launch of the Foundation that there may
be years when there is no winner.
This Foundation was established to stimulate debate around, and improve the quality of, African
governance. Although there is much focus on the prize, the Foundation is engaged in many other
activities to help improve governance. Central to these is the Ibrahim Index of African Governance, which
the Foundation published earlier this month, which gives powerful information to all citizens about the
performance of their countries.”
The Board of the Mo Ibrahim Foundation also confirmed that despite the fact that there is no laureate this
year, the planned events in Dar es Salaam, Tanzania on 14 and 15 November 2009 will go ahead.
These events will include a discussion forum that will bring together stakeholders to discuss issues that
are key to Africa’s future progress including climate justice, agriculture and food security and regional
economic integration. The aim of the forum is to articulate shared aspirations and a common vision for the
future around these issues.
Mo Ibrahim said of the forum: “At a time when, we are seeing overall progress in Africa, despite worrying
setbacks in some countries, it is vital that African stakeholders and institutions come together to look for a
way forward on the major challenges facing the African continent. I look forward to the discussions
around this urgent African agenda.”
The forum will include the following sessions:
o Climate change and climate justice chaired by President Festus Mogae. President Mogae
is one of United Nations Secretary-General, Ban Ki-moon’s four special envoys on
climate change.
o Agriculture and food security, chaired by H.E. Mr Kofi Annan. Mr Annan is Chairman of
the Board of the Alliance for a Green Revolution in Africa (AGRA).
o Regional Economic Integration, chaired by H.E. Mr Abdoulie Janneh. Mr Janneh is
Secretary-General of the United Nations Economic Commission for Africa.
http://www.moibrahimfoundation.org/en
MO IBRAHIM
Sudan-born mobile phone entrepreneur
Moved to UK in 1974 to study
By 1983, director of BT Cellnet
Founded Mobile Systems International, which he sold to Marconi in 2000
Then set up Celtel, used by 25m Africans
2007: Started African leadership prize
2008: Named UK's most influential black person
Saturday, 17 October 2009
Masai Mara, Kenya - 50 places to see before you die
Masai Mara, Kenya - 50 places to see before you die
Step onto the set of Out of Africa, the sprawling Masai Mara game reserve of Kenya and Tanzania, and you’ll never forget the experience. If by some miracle, glimpsing the ‘big five’ – lions, leopards, elephants, rhino and buffalo – in their natural habitat leaves you cold, don’t fret. They’re just the beginning. The spectacle of the year is the millions-strong annual wildebeest migration thundering across the rolling grasslands.
Step onto the set of Out of Africa, the sprawling Masai Mara game reserve of Kenya and Tanzania, and you’ll never forget the experience. If by some miracle, glimpsing the ‘big five’ – lions, leopards, elephants, rhino and buffalo – in their natural habitat leaves you cold, don’t fret. They’re just the beginning. The spectacle of the year is the millions-strong annual wildebeest migration thundering across the rolling grasslands.
Thursday, 15 October 2009
Get a complimentary copy of an amazing new course
Hi
I'm writing to tell you how you can get a complimentary copy -
yes a copy for *nothing* - of a remarkable new website building
training course that the folks over at Intellimon (who you may
know as the makers of the award-winning 'XSitePro' Web site
design software) are launching, a week from now.
They're having a prize draw on Thursday and it is free to enter.
More on that in a moment, but if you can't wait here's the link
:-)
http://www.complete-guide-to-
The course, in case you haven't already heard, is MASSIVE. It's
taken twelve months to put together, and is completely unique.
It's been specially put together for people:
... who have never built a web site in their lives before...
or
... who have tried to get to grips with building websites, only
to get confused and de-motivated before eventually giving up out
of sheer frustration...
or
... who have previously outsourced and now want to take control
of their existing website, and stop relying on costly designers
who want paying every time a small change needs making...
In short people who want to move forward with their plans and
ideas on-line, but need someone to show them the EXACT steps
they need to take.
And that's *exactly* what this course will do for you.
There's over THIRTY HOURS of stimulating and professionally
delivered content, packed full of:
- over-the-shoulder demonstrations
- full-motion video explanations
- interactive drawings
- pop-quizzes
- homework exercises
... and plenty more besides.
This is the Website Training MOTHERLODE!!
Can you imagine what you could achieve with this invaluable
new-found skill? Go on... just picture the possibilities...
Now, I did say at the start of this message that I'd tell you
how you could get hold of a copy without parting with a single
cent... well, here's how ...
As part of the build up to the launch on Wednesday 21st October,
there's a 'Grand Prize Draw' being held - the draw's taking
place this Thursday at 10pm Eastern Time - and all you need to
do to enter is fill out your name and e-mail in the Entry Form.
There are a total of TEN free training seats being given away,
and the winners will be announced this Friday - so you won't
have long to wait.
I urge you to enter this generous prize draw as soon as
possible. It would be a real shame if you were to miss out
simply for the sake of thirty seconds of your time.
The link to enter the draw is:
http://www.complete-guide-to-
Here's hoping yours is one of the lucky names drawn out of the
hat on Thursday.
Yours,
I'm writing to tell you how you can get a complimentary copy -
yes a copy for *nothing* - of a remarkable new website building
training course that the folks over at Intellimon (who you may
know as the makers of the award-winning 'XSitePro' Web site
design software) are launching, a week from now.
They're having a prize draw on Thursday and it is free to enter.
More on that in a moment, but if you can't wait here's the link
:-)
http://www.complete-guide-to-
The course, in case you haven't already heard, is MASSIVE. It's
taken twelve months to put together, and is completely unique.
It's been specially put together for people:
... who have never built a web site in their lives before...
or
... who have tried to get to grips with building websites, only
to get confused and de-motivated before eventually giving up out
of sheer frustration...
or
... who have previously outsourced and now want to take control
of their existing website, and stop relying on costly designers
who want paying every time a small change needs making...
In short people who want to move forward with their plans and
ideas on-line, but need someone to show them the EXACT steps
they need to take.
And that's *exactly* what this course will do for you.
There's over THIRTY HOURS of stimulating and professionally
delivered content, packed full of:
- over-the-shoulder demonstrations
- full-motion video explanations
- interactive drawings
- pop-quizzes
- homework exercises
... and plenty more besides.
This is the Website Training MOTHERLODE!!
Can you imagine what you could achieve with this invaluable
new-found skill? Go on... just picture the possibilities...
Now, I did say at the start of this message that I'd tell you
how you could get hold of a copy without parting with a single
cent... well, here's how ...
As part of the build up to the launch on Wednesday 21st October,
there's a 'Grand Prize Draw' being held - the draw's taking
place this Thursday at 10pm Eastern Time - and all you need to
do to enter is fill out your name and e-mail in the Entry Form.
There are a total of TEN free training seats being given away,
and the winners will be announced this Friday - so you won't
have long to wait.
I urge you to enter this generous prize draw as soon as
possible. It would be a real shame if you were to miss out
simply for the sake of thirty seconds of your time.
The link to enter the draw is:
http://www.complete-guide-to-
Here's hoping yours is one of the lucky names drawn out of the
hat on Thursday.
Yours,
Tuesday, 13 October 2009
free 30 hours of the best webdesign training software
Xsitepro have produced a new product.
The complete guide to website design
I received an email from Paul (xsitepro)
see below
I've decided that I'm going to GIVE AWAY the course to a closed
group of ten lucky prize winners ... yessiree, it's competition
time folks!
I want to let you know, urgently, ahead of opening the doors to
this special prize draw tomorrow (Tuesday) because I'm 100% sure
it's something worth mailing your list about.
The draw will be on Thursday so start letting everyone know as
soon as the doors are open tomorrow at 12:00 midday EST.
Everyone loves a free gift, right? Especially when it's the
valuable gift of in-depth knowledge and understanding of
something the recipient has previously struggled with.
The proposition really is as simple as they come.
There are HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS of people out there who really,
truly, genuinely need this product. Fact! I surveyed my list
twelve months ago and thousands of people told me so!.
So a year ago I, and my team, locked ourselves away and
engineered a training course like you've never seen before.
Simply put it goes top-to-toe through everything someone could
possibly want to know and learn in order to be able to produce
professional quality Websites, time and time again.
We guarantee it.
The system we've employed to deliver this content is absolutely
top of the range, too. We've packed-in over thirty hours of
training with interactive drawings, full-motion videos,
pop-quizzes, over-the-shoulder demonstrations, diagrams,
annotations and more besides, all ensuring that the lessons are
as engaging, stimulating and memorable as possible.
And when you throw into this mix, of super-detailed training and
effective delivery, the fact that we're offering a launch price
of only $197 (not the thousands of dollars you see plenty of
other courses being sold for) you get the feeling we're about to
see a very rare launch indeed - one that delivers a genuinely
high value product, to meet a massive qualified need, at a
rock-bottom price.
That's it - nothing more to understand than that.
Here's your link :
complete-guide-to-website-building
The link above will take visitors directly to the competition
entry form, and will cookie them for 90 days. So, when 'The
Complete Guide To Website Building' goes on general release next
week you'll not only be sharing in the excitement... you'll be
sharing in the revenues too, but only if you get busy spreading
the word! ;-)
Everyone loves a free prize draw, so don't keep it to yourself
:-)
The complete guide to website design
I received an email from Paul (xsitepro)
see below
I've decided that I'm going to GIVE AWAY the course to a closed
group of ten lucky prize winners ... yessiree, it's competition
time folks!
I want to let you know, urgently, ahead of opening the doors to
this special prize draw tomorrow (Tuesday) because I'm 100% sure
it's something worth mailing your list about.
The draw will be on Thursday so start letting everyone know as
soon as the doors are open tomorrow at 12:00 midday EST.
Everyone loves a free gift, right? Especially when it's the
valuable gift of in-depth knowledge and understanding of
something the recipient has previously struggled with.
The proposition really is as simple as they come.
There are HUNDREDS OF THOUSANDS of people out there who really,
truly, genuinely need this product. Fact! I surveyed my list
twelve months ago and thousands of people told me so!.
So a year ago I, and my team, locked ourselves away and
engineered a training course like you've never seen before.
Simply put it goes top-to-toe through everything someone could
possibly want to know and learn in order to be able to produce
professional quality Websites, time and time again.
We guarantee it.
The system we've employed to deliver this content is absolutely
top of the range, too. We've packed-in over thirty hours of
training with interactive drawings, full-motion videos,
pop-quizzes, over-the-shoulder demonstrations, diagrams,
annotations and more besides, all ensuring that the lessons are
as engaging, stimulating and memorable as possible.
And when you throw into this mix, of super-detailed training and
effective delivery, the fact that we're offering a launch price
of only $197 (not the thousands of dollars you see plenty of
other courses being sold for) you get the feeling we're about to
see a very rare launch indeed - one that delivers a genuinely
high value product, to meet a massive qualified need, at a
rock-bottom price.
That's it - nothing more to understand than that.
Here's your link :
complete-guide-to-website-building
The link above will take visitors directly to the competition
entry form, and will cookie them for 90 days. So, when 'The
Complete Guide To Website Building' goes on general release next
week you'll not only be sharing in the excitement... you'll be
sharing in the revenues too, but only if you get busy spreading
the word! ;-)
Everyone loves a free prize draw, so don't keep it to yourself
:-)
Friday, 9 October 2009
Donkeys earn their stripes by posing as zebras in zoo - Times Online
Donkeys earn their stripes by posing as zebras in zoo - Times Online
Two white donkeys dyed with black stripes, above, delight Palestinian children, who have never seen a zebra for real, at a small Gaza zoo.
With their long ears, drooping heads and sleepy eyes, the impostors would probably not fool the zoo’s only lioness. But the effect achieved by the zoo owners’ dye job looks not so bad — to the unpractised eye, and from a distance.
On closer inspection their fur resembles the classic convict suit of cartoon strips. Nidal Barghouti, whose father owns the Marah Land zoo, said that the two female donkeys were striped using masking tape and women’s hair dye, applied with a brush.
“The first time we used paint but it didn’t look good,” he said. “The children don’t know so they call them zebras and they are happy to see something new.”
Tuesday, 22 September 2009
Kenya drought taking its toll
http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/world/africa/8265988.stm
One of the worst droughts in living memory is taking its toll on both people and wildlife in Kenya.
Clashes over land and water lead to the deaths of 32 people last week, with community leaders warning there will be more violence.
Meanwhile, in Samburu district at least 24 elephants have either starved or been shot by poachers looking for food.
One of the worst droughts in living memory is taking its toll on both people and wildlife in Kenya.
Clashes over land and water lead to the deaths of 32 people last week, with community leaders warning there will be more violence.
Meanwhile, in Samburu district at least 24 elephants have either starved or been shot by poachers looking for food.
BBC NEWS | World | Africa | Kenya hit by killer drought
BBC NEWS | World | Africa | Kenya hit by killer drought
It was not hard to find the dead elephant.
The stench of the rotting carcass made it easy to track down in the sparse bush. A young male - barely four years old and still an infant by elephant standards - lay on its side in the sand by a river.
Around its feet, the sand had been cleared in small arcs - signs of the animal's thrashing as it struggled to stand and survive.
But there was nothing to eat. Nothing. On the ground, not a blade of grass existed, every green shoot had been stripped from the trees.
For Iain Douglas Hamilton, from the conservation organisation Save The Elephants, it was a heartbreaking sight.
"In all my 12 years here, I've never seen anything as bad as this," he said.
"The last long rains [in April] failed completely, and we haven't had a proper wet season for at least three years. If the rains fail in October and November, we'll go into total crisis. I can't even begin to imagine how awful that would be."
Sunday, 20 September 2009
BBC NEWS | Technology | New Africa broadband link 'ready'
BBC NEWS | Technology | New Africa broadband link 'ready'
By Adam Blenford
BBC News, Nairobi
BBC News, Nairobi
A new high-speed undersea cable connecting East Africa with the rest of the world is poised to go live, Kenya's top internet official has told the BBC.
The launch of the government-backed East African Marine System (Teams) comes as providers face a backlash over slow connection speeds and high prices.
Internet providers have increased speeds and lowered costs since the Seacom cable went live in August.
But users say services still remain too expensive for most ordinary Kenyans.
Senior government official Bitange Ndemo said there was evidence that some internet service providers (ISPs) were "fleecing the public".
Almost two months after the first high-speed cable made landfall, the highest residential internet speed offered by Kenya's largest ISP remains capped at one megabit per second (Mbps).
That speed is available only at night and at weekends, for an annual cost of $1,440 (£860). The average Kenyan annual wage is about $800, the UN estimates.
BBC NEWS | In Pictures | In pictures: Nairobi's digital divide
BBC NEWS | In Pictures | In pictures: Nairobi's digital divide
Many of Nairobi's coffee shops now offer free or low -cost wireless internet .
tech savvy users have access to the latest laptops and 3G devices
Many of Nairobi's coffee shops now offer free or low -cost wireless internet .
tech savvy users have access to the latest laptops and 3G devices
Monday, 14 September 2009
The Standard | Online Edition :: ‘Oldest’ city in sub-Saharan Africa found in Mombasa
The Standard | Online Edition :: ‘Oldest’ city in sub-Saharan Africa found in Mombasa
"The city is one of the oldest in Sub Saharan Africa and probably among the earliest settlements in the world," he said.
Archeologists believe about 15,000 people were inhabitants of the city, which is a few metres from the famous historical Jumba la Mtwana ruins.
They believe the city existed through various eras, from BC to AD (after Christ), ending up with colonisation by Arabs who converted the inhabitants to Islam.
Initial conclusion after the find appears to confirm that the Inhabitants were African who were later colonised by Arabs.
The Mtwapa ruins covers about 22 acres in diameter, ringed with a thick stone wall.
Since 1986, the lost town had become the subject of intensive research by archaeologists who now see its discovery as a breakthrough in their efforts to trace the background of Africa’s early inhabitants.
Little has been documented about the new discovery, which is a protected area by the National Museums of Kenya (NMK).
The professor says the main aim of the research is to study all the history that the excavation can yield and shed light on the city’s past. "Despite reports that the early inhabitants were Arabs, we are strongly convinced they were of African origin since an initial study of their way of life, as seen from the ruins, compares with others found elsewhere in sub Saharan Africa," said the professor.
The skulls do not resemble those from Arabic communities, but bear similar characteristics with Africans.
"Their feeding culture was similar to that of old African communities and they removed some of their teeth and sharpened others, a common African tradition," he said.
Site Gazetted
According to the Assistant Director and Curator at the Fort Jesus museum, Jimbi Katana the site was gazetted way back before Kenya attained independence due to its historic importance.
The NMK and officials from Illinois University will rebury the dead after conclusion of the research.
If proven that the inhabitants were Africans, it will be a sharp contradiction to historical records that the region’s early inhabitants had been Arab. "They may have been ancestors of Watwafi, Wachonyi, Giriama, Ribe, Mvita, Oromo, Taita among others who inhabit the coastal region," said Kusimba.
At one tomb where there were 19 burials, there are layers of floors indicating different times that the community lived through.
But they were converted to Islam as skeletons were buried facing Qibla (the Mecca direction for Islamic prayers) with the knees bent at the joint.
At the scene, there is a ruin of a mosque that acted as their worship centre and a borehole where they used to fetch water, he said.
"We believe the inhabitants were attacked by some kind of water or airborne disease since most of the graves are for young children," the professor noted.
"We have dug through several layers until we reached the underneath natural corals and we have established the Islamic culture was introduced at the fourth layer, way after the locals had established themselves," he said.
The streets were narrow and buildings had a unique and rich architectural design with thick walls that acted as sound mufflers with rooms being measured by arms’ stretch.
"They realised, since the area was hot and humid, having narrow streets would ensure they got the beach breeze that would keep their houses cool, since they had no windows," said the historian.
The inhabitants who had lived in the area for over 3,000 years interacted with Muslim traders from Iran, Turkey, India and later the Omans who came after the Romans.
The graves are said to date back to the 13th Century and the city’s wall had three gates. The wall’s main function was to prevent animals from invading them, said the professor.
After the excavation the researchers will take out three teeth from each skeleton, and some few bones to act as samples.
One of the teeth will be used to extract ancient DNA for biological identity while the second will be for an isotope (chemical) analysis including the migration patterns and history.
Dating purposes
The last tooth will be for dating purposes and would determine when they died.
"We shall just extract a few parts including the teeth and some bones in order to get their genealogy," said the professor.
Prof Kusimba, the author of six books on the ‘Rise and Fall of Swahili States’ urges Kenyans to be interested in learning the diversity of old history.
He is also studying the link between the Coastal beaches.
"The city is one of the oldest in Sub Saharan Africa and probably among the earliest settlements in the world," he said.
Archeologists believe about 15,000 people were inhabitants of the city, which is a few metres from the famous historical Jumba la Mtwana ruins.
They believe the city existed through various eras, from BC to AD (after Christ), ending up with colonisation by Arabs who converted the inhabitants to Islam.
Initial conclusion after the find appears to confirm that the Inhabitants were African who were later colonised by Arabs.
The Mtwapa ruins covers about 22 acres in diameter, ringed with a thick stone wall.
Since 1986, the lost town had become the subject of intensive research by archaeologists who now see its discovery as a breakthrough in their efforts to trace the background of Africa’s early inhabitants.
Little has been documented about the new discovery, which is a protected area by the National Museums of Kenya (NMK).
The professor says the main aim of the research is to study all the history that the excavation can yield and shed light on the city’s past. "Despite reports that the early inhabitants were Arabs, we are strongly convinced they were of African origin since an initial study of their way of life, as seen from the ruins, compares with others found elsewhere in sub Saharan Africa," said the professor.
The skulls do not resemble those from Arabic communities, but bear similar characteristics with Africans.
"Their feeding culture was similar to that of old African communities and they removed some of their teeth and sharpened others, a common African tradition," he said.
Site Gazetted
According to the Assistant Director and Curator at the Fort Jesus museum, Jimbi Katana the site was gazetted way back before Kenya attained independence due to its historic importance.
The NMK and officials from Illinois University will rebury the dead after conclusion of the research.
If proven that the inhabitants were Africans, it will be a sharp contradiction to historical records that the region’s early inhabitants had been Arab. "They may have been ancestors of Watwafi, Wachonyi, Giriama, Ribe, Mvita, Oromo, Taita among others who inhabit the coastal region," said Kusimba.
At one tomb where there were 19 burials, there are layers of floors indicating different times that the community lived through.
But they were converted to Islam as skeletons were buried facing Qibla (the Mecca direction for Islamic prayers) with the knees bent at the joint.
At the scene, there is a ruin of a mosque that acted as their worship centre and a borehole where they used to fetch water, he said.
"We believe the inhabitants were attacked by some kind of water or airborne disease since most of the graves are for young children," the professor noted.
"We have dug through several layers until we reached the underneath natural corals and we have established the Islamic culture was introduced at the fourth layer, way after the locals had established themselves," he said.
The streets were narrow and buildings had a unique and rich architectural design with thick walls that acted as sound mufflers with rooms being measured by arms’ stretch.
"They realised, since the area was hot and humid, having narrow streets would ensure they got the beach breeze that would keep their houses cool, since they had no windows," said the historian.
The inhabitants who had lived in the area for over 3,000 years interacted with Muslim traders from Iran, Turkey, India and later the Omans who came after the Romans.
The graves are said to date back to the 13th Century and the city’s wall had three gates. The wall’s main function was to prevent animals from invading them, said the professor.
After the excavation the researchers will take out three teeth from each skeleton, and some few bones to act as samples.
One of the teeth will be used to extract ancient DNA for biological identity while the second will be for an isotope (chemical) analysis including the migration patterns and history.
Dating purposes
The last tooth will be for dating purposes and would determine when they died.
"We shall just extract a few parts including the teeth and some bones in order to get their genealogy," said the professor.
Prof Kusimba, the author of six books on the ‘Rise and Fall of Swahili States’ urges Kenyans to be interested in learning the diversity of old history.
He is also studying the link between the Coastal beaches.
Sunday, 13 September 2009
Monday, 7 September 2009
The Standard | Online Edition :: Lamu fire: More than 2,500 residents out in the cold
The Standard | Online Edition :: Lamu fire: More than 2,500 residents out in the cold
More than 2,500 residents of Faza Island are spending their nights on the hard floors of the island’s mosques after a fire destroyed their homes on Saturday.
Others huddled inside classrooms of the only secondary school on the island of 4,500 people. Faza is part of the Lamu archipelago.
More than 2,500 residents of Faza Island are spending their nights on the hard floors of the island’s mosques after a fire destroyed their homes on Saturday.
Others huddled inside classrooms of the only secondary school on the island of 4,500 people. Faza is part of the Lamu archipelago.
Two bloodhounds from Notts have been sent over to the Chyluu Hills in Kenya to track poachers
Two bloodhounds from Notts have been sent over to the Chyluu Hills in Kenya to track poachers
The dogs were members of the Readyfield Bloodhounds pack, from Caunton, near Newark, and are more used to taking part in hunts in the surrounding counties.
Now, they will be putting their skills to use in the wilds of Africa, tracking down poachers who illegally hunt rhino.
Saturday, 29 August 2009
Tammy's Somali Home: Somali Steak with Chili
Tammy's Somali Home: Somali Steak with Chili
1 lbs. steak; sliced really thin
2 Tbsp. oil
Marinade
1 ts. garlic; crushed
2 Tbsp. tomato sauce
1 chili; chopped
1/2 ts. salt
1/2 ts. curry powder
1/2 ts. cumin
1 Tbsp. oil
1. Combine all the ingredients into a large Ziploc bag.
2. Add the steak and mix.
3. Marinate the steak for 4 - 6 hours or overnight. (The longer it marinates, the better it will
be.)
4. Heat the oil in a frying pan.
5. Add the meat and cook for about 3 minutes; turn.
6. Continue cooking for an additional 2 minutes and drain on a paper towel.
1 lbs. steak; sliced really thin
2 Tbsp. oil
Marinade
1 ts. garlic; crushed
2 Tbsp. tomato sauce
1 chili; chopped
1/2 ts. salt
1/2 ts. curry powder
1/2 ts. cumin
1 Tbsp. oil
1. Combine all the ingredients into a large Ziploc bag.
2. Add the steak and mix.
3. Marinate the steak for 4 - 6 hours or overnight. (The longer it marinates, the better it will
be.)
4. Heat the oil in a frying pan.
5. Add the meat and cook for about 3 minutes; turn.
6. Continue cooking for an additional 2 minutes and drain on a paper towel.
Thursday, 27 August 2009
Lamu, Manda and Pate
Where Tanzania has Zanzibar, Kenya has Lamu, an archipelago comprising three islands: Lamu, Manda and Pate. The focus is Lamu, which contains just four settlements, interspersed by dense, protected mangroves along the east coast and an almost uninterrupted stretch of wild beach to the west. Perhaps the most seductive of Swahili communities (and one of the oldest), the Unesco-heritage listed Lamu Town is a cluster of coral stone and lime houses pinched together along the waterfront. Donkey and cart is the mode of transport and the streets and alleys are tapered to the point where the buildings almost seem to prop one another up. The animated market square, with its meat and fish halls – long, dark passages with slabs of unidentifiable meats and goats' heads and tropical fish displayed on wooden benches – and dhow-cluttered jetties, belie a laid-back society that is one of the coast's most welcoming destinations.
After exploring Lamu Town, tourists often make for the beach resort of Shela, which has a noticeably more European feel and a smattering of upmarket hotels
Meals without frontiers: Asian migrants to the UK have given their own twist to English dishes - Features, Food & Drink - The Independent
Meals without frontiers: Asian migrants to the UK have given their own twist to English dishes - Features, Food & Drink - The Independent
Thursday, 27 August 2009
'Indians and Africans took to cooking trademark English dishes, adapting them with flair to make them more edible,' says Yasmin Alibhai-Brown
We know that "foreign" food swept into these isles in the Elizabethan age of exploration. Walter Raleigh and others who went forth brought back tomatoes from Mexico (love apples as they were then called), sugar, spices like paprika and chilli, almonds and other exotic ingredients used for ever-more-thrilling, outrageous feasts for the rich. In truth, many favourites thought to be quintessentially British – tea, potatoes – were brought in from elsewhere and naturalised. As Rose Prince writes in her book, The New English Kitchen (2005): "This is a country ... with a five-hundred-year-old history of food piracy, borrowing ideas from other shores, importing their raw materials and learning to cultivate them on our soils." Brits were suckers for wild and new tastes, continuing an irrepressible national characteristic.
Many an intrepid Empire builder went native in spite of a great deal of self-discipline and denial. Surrounded in many of the colonies by spicy aromas and strong tastes, their palates would not accept the dull, grey neutrality of their homeland food. Belief in racial superiority was a bulwark of sorts, but Brits abroad were homesick, often ill, depressed and feeling threatened by the hordes. How hard they tried to stay loyal to Kraft cheese and tinned pilchards. Sticky English puds and cakes kept their sweet appeal but in hot climes, plain pies, roasts and boiled-to-death vegetables tasted like undeserved punishment. HP and LP sauces and tomato ketchup were sent for from the old land, but were no match for curry powder and tamarind. The most committed purist settler in Kenya was soon eating groundnut sauce and local breads made with banana yeast and in India, spiced rice (kedgeree) and of course Anglicised curries.
Immigration to Britain carried on the British propensity for culinary adventure and expansiveness. Europeans, Asians, Caribbeans, Africans, Jews, now Poles add their bit into the endlessly-changing national cuisine. That story is told often enough. However, much less known (and acknowledged) is the influence of old and new British cooking on colonial subjects and migrants to Britain. Indians and Africans took to cooking trademark English dishes, adapting them with flair to make them more edible. In Uganda, where I was born under the Union Jack, myths had grown around plucky little Blighty and its incredible power spread across the world. My mother and her mates believed something potent in their food gave the rulers legendary strength and determination. In the Fifties, the leader of our worldwide Shia sect, our Imam, issued an edict instructing parents to give their young children bland English grub as it was healthier than their traditional Asian African cooking.
They followed the order, yet subverted it, perhaps because they couldn't bear the idea of force-feeding kids used to strong flavours. In my recently-published food memoir, The Settler's Cookbook, I describe the tricks. They fed us fishcakes – only livened up with chilli – and turned English Shepherd's pie, which we were taught in school, into a spiced delight. "Now beti, wait till I make it," said Jena, my mum, as she threw the pie into the bin. "Next time. This will be my Indian shepherd's pie. With bit of garam masala and magic we can repair this dish." HP and LP sauces went into meat marinades for barbeques on simple aluminium grills called sigris and exotic touches transformed sweets and cakes. Lime and saffron were mixed into cakes; cardamom and semolina were added to special shortbread, renamed nankatai, served to wedding guests. Nestle's Carnation milk and condensed milk were appropriated for an innovative array of puddings. There is a lovely, sweet vermicelli in milk we make, with saffron and pistachios, which I am sure is based on rice pudding.
The same two-way traffic of ideas took place after post-war immigration. Again only one side of the story is told, how we came, we saw, and led this austere, tasteless land to chicken tikka masala, the nation's favourite dish and thereon to infinite variety. Today Thai food is served in the most English of pubs and even the nationalistic Gary Rhodes fails to cook within what he calls the true British repertoire. But once again the influence goes the other way, too. Migrants past and present have picked up native eating habits, good and bad. Did you know that during Ramadan, one of the favourite the pre-dawn breakfasts these days is an "English" with halal beef sausages, beef bacon, chilli baked beans and cheap white bread or parathas?
Just this month, our mosque leaders, echoing our old Imam, have set up a website to warn people of the health hazards of an over-rich and fatty diets with suggestions on using British methods – baking, roasting and steaming – to make modern Asian food. Quite right, too. Diabetes and heart disease afflict a disproportionate number of black and Asian Britons and we need to learn to eat better from those Britons who eat and cook with care and knowledge. Jena bought herself a casserole dish in the Seventies and invented a wonderful, totally fat-free lamb curry which is slow cooked in the oven. Masala fish and potatoes, which used to be fried deep in oil, are now roasted and English vegetables such as broccoli and Brussels sprouts are used for delectable, nouveau Indian vegetarian dishes.
As Asian women get more conscious of body image (a terrible western anxiety we have picked up) we are getting the recipe books to help those on perpetual diets, books such as Indian Cooking Without Fat by Mridula Baljekar (Metro, 2000). Conversely, never before has so much fresh cream been consumed by Asians – we add it to everything from coffee to sweetmeats. Increasingly popular too is new wave Asian microwave cooking. Some of my Asian friends now use only olive oil and one recently told me she marinades halibut in pesto mixed with turmeric, crushed green chillies, olive oil, lime juice and sugar, and grills it – her version of "green fish" back home, which was marinaded in coriander and chillies, dipped in batter and deep fried. Trade is never one way. If we transformed Britannia, she too transfigured our way of thinking about food and we have both gained from the exchange.
Jena's Shepherd's Pie
Filling
1lb very lean mince
Salt
¾ tsp crushed ginger
¾ tsp crushed garlic
¾ tsp garam masala
6 spring onions
1 bunch fresh coriander
2 green chillies
1 small lime
¾ tsp mint sauce
5 chopped tomatoes
Mash
8 medium-sized potatoes
50gm butter
¼ tsp crushed garlic
2 tbsp milk
Salt to taste
¾ tsp paprika powder
Peel and halve potatoes and put them to boil in salty water. Using a non-stick frying pan, dry-fry the mince with salt, ginger and garlic. Add garam masala and cook for two more minutes until dry and aromatic. Cool.
Stir in finely chopped onions, coriander, green chillies, lime juice as well as the mint sauce. Transfer into a pie dish and layer tomatoes over the top.
Melt 40 grams of butter and add garlic, frying over gentle heat for a minute. Mash potatoes with this butter-and-garlic mixture and all the other mash ingredients. Spread over the meat and tomato mixture. Melt the rest of the butter and brush over the top.
Bake for twenty-five minutes in the oven at medium temperature (180C/gas mark 4/ 350F) until nicely brown at the top.
Lamb curry in the oven
Ingredients
2lb leg of lamb cut into small bits – buy this with the top fat taken off.
500gm full-fat yoghurt
2 cans chopped tomatoes
5 tbsp fried onions – you can buy these in Asian food stores, brown and crisp. If you can't get them, fry 2 finely sliced onions in sunflower oil until brown, than drain on kitchen paper
2 tsp crushed ginger, garlic and chilli mix or just ginger and garlic mix (you can use chilli powder to taste instead)
1 tbsp cumin/coriander powder mix
2 tsp turmeric
1 mug water
1 tbsp garam masala
Preheat the oven to 200F.
Put all the ingredients into a solid covered pot that can go into the oven. Cook in oven for 45 minutes. Take out, stir, check how the meat is cooking.
Add salt to taste and the garam masala. Return to cook for another 30 minutes.
Check again – if too thick add a cup of water. The meat should be melting soft. Cook until it is. Sprinkle with coriander and serve with vegetable rice or fresh baguettes.
Microwave date halva
(Our people are getting worried about sugar and fat, and this a "healthy" sweetmeat, made in England.)
Ingredients, serves 6
1lb dried, stoned dates (not the block)
pt whipping cream
Peeled unsalted cashews or pistachios
Dessicated coconut to taste
In a glass bowl combine dates with the cream and cover, then zap the mixture for five minutes. Stir and zap again for three minutes. Do this twice more.
Add the nuts and zap for three more minutes. Press into a greased tray, cover and freeze for three hours.
Defrost and cut into diamond shapes. Sprinkle with desiccated coconut. Store in a sealed box in the fridge.
Nankatai
This is the "shortcake" served with tea after wedding ceremonies.
Ingredients
4oz caster sugar
6oz melted butter
1 very large egg
1 tsp vanilla extract
7oz plain flour
2oz semolina
1 tsp baking powder
tsp cardamom powder
Some strands of best saffron infused in a small amount of hot water
Beat the sugar into the melted butter then add the egg and vanilla. Beat in the flour, semolina, baking powder and cardamom then, using your hands, knead the dough. It should be soft but not sticky.
Grease a flat baking tray. Break off small pieces and roll into a ball. Flatten the top, then indent it with a finger like a dimple Place them on the tray, not too close together.
Now colour the indentation with the saffron water, an orange spot in the middle, like a tikka on a married Hindu woman's forehead (I am sure that is what inspired this strange ritual).
Bake at a medium temperature 180C/Gas Mark 4/350F until they are still pale but cooked, the colour of shortbread.
Wednesday, 19 August 2009
The Majlis Lamu
The Majlis Lamu is a small luxury beach resort located on the exotic
Manda island in the Lamu archipelago in Kenya’s North coast.
The island resort combines 25 superbly appointed oversized rooms
divided into 4 villas. All rooms boast large bedrooms with a king-size
bed draped in netting, generous en-suite bathrooms, private veranda,
air-conditioning, electric fans, safe, and internet key connection
(available upon request).
The Majlis offers everything needed for a perfectly relaxing and
peaceful holiday, from the open-sided restaurant which offers
outstanding international cuisine, to the bar, the beautiful pools and
wellness center to enjoy SPA treatments.
The Majlis can help to plan your personal adventure with expert staff
such as cultural trips around Lamu, exciting excursions on dhow
sailing boats, snorkeling and water sports.
Lamu can be
reached by air from Kenya’s main airports: Nairobi (JKIA),
Mombasa and Malindi.
Scheduled Air Kenya, Safari Link and Fly540 from Nairobi to Lamu,
direct no-stop flight or via Malindi
All flights land on the airstrip in Manda Island, just across the channel
from Lamu.
The Majlis Lamu, Ltd.
Manda Island
P.O. Box 502
80500 Lamu
Kenya
Phone: +254 20 882028 / +254 20 882598
Fax: +44 207 980 4900 / +254 20 8828
http://www.themajlisresorts.com/reservation.php
Read reviews about the best kenya hotels at http://www.bestkenyahotels.com
Manda island in the Lamu archipelago in Kenya’s North coast.
The island resort combines 25 superbly appointed oversized rooms
divided into 4 villas. All rooms boast large bedrooms with a king-size
bed draped in netting, generous en-suite bathrooms, private veranda,
air-conditioning, electric fans, safe, and internet key connection
(available upon request).
The Majlis offers everything needed for a perfectly relaxing and
peaceful holiday, from the open-sided restaurant which offers
outstanding international cuisine, to the bar, the beautiful pools and
wellness center to enjoy SPA treatments.
The Majlis can help to plan your personal adventure with expert staff
such as cultural trips around Lamu, exciting excursions on dhow
sailing boats, snorkeling and water sports.
Lamu can be
reached by air from Kenya’s main airports: Nairobi (JKIA),
Mombasa and Malindi.
Scheduled Air Kenya, Safari Link and Fly540 from Nairobi to Lamu,
direct no-stop flight or via Malindi
All flights land on the airstrip in Manda Island, just across the channel
from Lamu.
The Majlis Lamu, Ltd.
Manda Island
P.O. Box 502
80500 Lamu
Kenya
Phone: +254 20 882028 / +254 20 882598
Fax: +44 207 980 4900 / +254 20 8828
http://www.themajlisresorts.com/reservation.php
Read reviews about the best kenya hotels at http://www.bestkenyahotels.com
bestkenyahotels.com
bestkenyahotels.com
One of the most famous hotels in the history of Kenya, Treetops is a haven for every person who wishes to view and observe Kenya’s wild game in close proximity. Treetops, a hotel that is set snugly in the deep forest of the Aberdare National Park, is famous all over the world as the place where Queen Elizabeth II ascended to the throne of Britain. She went up a princess, and came down a queen, for her father King George died in the night.
Treetops hotel is strictly for those who want to do some serious viewing and candid photography of Kenya’s wild animals in the Aberdare Ranges. This beautiful hotel set in trees is extremely peaceful and serene to attract wild game, which is why children under five are not allowed into it.
Treetops was first built in the year 1932 in the midst of the old migration path of elephants from the Aberdare ranges to Mt. Kenya National Park. Its prime location in front of a watering hole makes it ideal for viewing game. It has four viewing decks that enable patrons to be in close proximity of animals such as elephants, buffalos, rhinos and gazelles with no danger.
Treetops blends into the background of the Aberdare Ranges with its unassuming façade as a tree-house supported by stilts. Nonetheless, it is very posh and provides extreme comfort to all its guests. It consists of 48 cozy cabin-like rooms, two suites, a lounge where guests can sit and sip their coffee as they view the animals, a charmingly old restaurant with refectory tables and benches and two bars for animal-lovers to sit back and relax after a grueling safari.
One of the most famous hotels in the history of Kenya, Treetops is a haven for every person who wishes to view and observe Kenya’s wild game in close proximity. Treetops, a hotel that is set snugly in the deep forest of the Aberdare National Park, is famous all over the world as the place where Queen Elizabeth II ascended to the throne of Britain. She went up a princess, and came down a queen, for her father King George died in the night.
Treetops hotel is strictly for those who want to do some serious viewing and candid photography of Kenya’s wild animals in the Aberdare Ranges. This beautiful hotel set in trees is extremely peaceful and serene to attract wild game, which is why children under five are not allowed into it.
Treetops was first built in the year 1932 in the midst of the old migration path of elephants from the Aberdare ranges to Mt. Kenya National Park. Its prime location in front of a watering hole makes it ideal for viewing game. It has four viewing decks that enable patrons to be in close proximity of animals such as elephants, buffalos, rhinos and gazelles with no danger.
Treetops blends into the background of the Aberdare Ranges with its unassuming façade as a tree-house supported by stilts. Nonetheless, it is very posh and provides extreme comfort to all its guests. It consists of 48 cozy cabin-like rooms, two suites, a lounge where guests can sit and sip their coffee as they view the animals, a charmingly old restaurant with refectory tables and benches and two bars for animal-lovers to sit back and relax after a grueling safari.
Tuesday, 28 July 2009
Breaking News, Kenya, Africa, Politics, Business, Sports, Blogs, Photos, Videos - Investors scramble for Lamu prime land
Breaking News, Kenya, Africa, Politics, Business, Sports, Blogs, Photos, Videos - Investors scramble for Lamu prime land
The listing of Lamu as a World Heritage Site coupled with plans to build Kenya’s second port in the area have resulted in the escalation of land and property prices.
Local speculators who act as linkmen between residents and foreign buyers have been doing a roaring business.
Expected boom
According to the National Museums of Kenya (NMK), the custodians of heritage sites such as Shella, Ras Kitau, Kipungani, Manda and Lamu Town, the archipelago has become a popular hunting ground for property speculators, especially foreign investors who want to cash in on the expected boom.
Coast region NMK assistant director Athman Hussein said plots that used to sell for between Sh2 million and Sh3 million have shot up to between Sh5 million and Sh10 million.
“Most investors were attracted by the rich cultural heritage that heralds a new clientele comprising rich Europeans who are mainly interested in a serene environment.
“As demand grew, some local people sold their dilapidated houses in the old town to foreign investors for tidy sums,” Mr Hussein said.
Similarly, the fortunes of property owners in the mainland have changed substantially following the announcement that the government was planning to build a new port in the area. The properties are mainly abandoned farms.
“Areas such as Mokowe, Hindi and Kililana on the periphery of Magogoni, the proposed site of the new port, have suddenly assumed new significance and land there is a gem,” he said.
An acre now sells for up to Sh2 million, according to Mr Mohamed Athman, a former councillor.
The listing of Lamu as a World Heritage Site was not by accident. According to a Unesco report, it had all the qualities to join world famous sites such as the Egyptian pyramids and hanging gardens of Babylon in Iraq.
The listing of Lamu as a World Heritage Site coupled with plans to build Kenya’s second port in the area have resulted in the escalation of land and property prices.
Local speculators who act as linkmen between residents and foreign buyers have been doing a roaring business.
Expected boom
According to the National Museums of Kenya (NMK), the custodians of heritage sites such as Shella, Ras Kitau, Kipungani, Manda and Lamu Town, the archipelago has become a popular hunting ground for property speculators, especially foreign investors who want to cash in on the expected boom.
Coast region NMK assistant director Athman Hussein said plots that used to sell for between Sh2 million and Sh3 million have shot up to between Sh5 million and Sh10 million.
“Most investors were attracted by the rich cultural heritage that heralds a new clientele comprising rich Europeans who are mainly interested in a serene environment.
“As demand grew, some local people sold their dilapidated houses in the old town to foreign investors for tidy sums,” Mr Hussein said.
Similarly, the fortunes of property owners in the mainland have changed substantially following the announcement that the government was planning to build a new port in the area. The properties are mainly abandoned farms.
“Areas such as Mokowe, Hindi and Kililana on the periphery of Magogoni, the proposed site of the new port, have suddenly assumed new significance and land there is a gem,” he said.
An acre now sells for up to Sh2 million, according to Mr Mohamed Athman, a former councillor.
The listing of Lamu as a World Heritage Site was not by accident. According to a Unesco report, it had all the qualities to join world famous sites such as the Egyptian pyramids and hanging gardens of Babylon in Iraq.
Tuesday, 14 July 2009
Rachael's December 2008 - Part 2! - Lamu, Kenya Travel Blog
Rachael's December 2008 - Part 2! - Lamu, Kenya Travel Blog
part of the story...
We arrived on Manda island (Lamu has no landing strip/airport) about 5pm and as soon as we got off the plane we could feel the wonderful heat. We walked down the steps from the plane and ambled slowly over to another area, taking in the landscape. Our luggage was taken from the plane onto carts and pulled by men over to where we were waiting and the carts were unloaded. People then just picked up their bags and wandered off. What followed would be the best and most surreal airport transfer I have ever known. We walked away from the landing strip about 10 minutes towards the jetty, where long motor boats were waiting for us to take us to Lamu island. The trip over was pretty dreamlike; the sun was not far off setting and most people on the boat were silently stunned. We gently chugged across the stretch of water absorbing the warm sun and relative humidity. As we approached, I can only describe what looked like a random location from Pirates of the Caribbean crossed with a more modern market scene from Indiana Jones. The architecture along the seafront was sort of Arabic/Portuguese/Spanish/Moorish/Indian (you know what I mean?), I don’t know how else to describe it! There were lots of people who appeared to be waiting at the jetty. We clambered from the boat with the help of the boatmen onto the slippery steps and climbed up. Arriving on Lamu was a sort of pleasant assault of the senses; what with the eye-catching architecture, beautiful sunset scenery, what appeared to be a throng of people (who quite obviously and intriguingly lived completely different lives and cultures to me), bobbing moored dhows (traditional Swahili sailing boats) and donkeys (donkey is the main form of transport on the island, there are only 2 motor vehicles I think, one of which is the district officer’s, and a tractor).
arriving on manda island
arriving on manda island
Various people were asking if we needed help with bags and offering to show us the way to our hotel, but thankfully we had bumped into someone who worked at our hotel when we arrived at the airport, so the others sort of backed off (they work on a commission basis I believe). The man from our hotel carried our heavier bags the 10 minute walk to where we would be staying. On the way he pointed out a traditional wedding dance between 2 men, who were sort of fighting (in an amicable, look-at-us sort of way) with wooden sticks (maybe mangroves?) to music whilst onlookers made a circle around them to watch. Walking to the hotel from the sea front was fascinating, a little like stepping back in time; walking through a maze of narrow winding streets and thinking I’d never be able to find my way back to the sea front (though of course it was second nature within a few days). There were gutters running down the side of the narrow streets for drainage (though not sewage, thankfully) and sometimes the gutters ran across the paths so you had to be careful where you were watching, especially at night. The walls were partly made from coral. In the shade of the houses it was much cooler. What with donkey poo all over the place, the smell was quite interesting but unnoticeable after a few days. And very now and then you caught a glimpse of a skinny cat disappearing down a dark narrow street.
view from the jetty
view from the jetty
We arrived at the hotel and were shown to the tables by the small pool and given fresh juice; then shown to our rooms. The hotel we stayed at was lovely (though the drainage for the shower in my en-suite didn’t work too well, I kept flooding the whole bathroom, but people repeatedly tried their best unsuccessfully to fix it). The hotel was a beautiful labyrinth of rooms and stairs, with sort of verandas with sofas and chairs where you could lounge, snooze or chat, dotted all over the place. Often you could hear people, but couldn’t see or find them, unless you went up some stairs, then down some, round the corner and up some more etc! My room had a sort of four poster wooden bed, but with a mosquito net instead of hanging fabric, and a fan, that I was very grateful for because it kept the mosquitoes away and kept me cool during the humid nights! When I arrived the bed was decorated with real small pretty flowers; it had great romance potential! My saloon style window looked onto some narrow backstreets with more donkeys.
the transfer!
the transfer!
Once we had unpacked, we met with 6 of the other VSOs, who we were going to spend Christmas with. I had only met one of them before, who I met at the VSO Preparing to Volunteer course in Birmingham; she emailed me about the whole trip in advance of me leaving England and invited me along. She had organised the whole holiday with one of the others, for which we were all very grateful; many thanks to them! The VSOs we joined are mostly working around Mombasa. A day later two others joined us to complete our party of 10. We were more girls than boys, but this didn’t cause a problem. We were all different ages and the majority from the UK, but we all had differing amounts of experience of working/travelling abroad so it was nice to share experiences. Most of them had arrived in Kenya mid October, so we were all relative newbies to VSO Kenya. We all got on remarkably well and it was nice to be able to spend different days with different people; I think if it was a smaller group it could have been more difficult. We didn’t get bored of each other’s company because we were quite a large group. I am grateful to have spent what could have been a difficult and strange Christmas away from home with such lovely and down to earth people.
approaching Lamu
approaching Lamu
Trixie and I had dinner at the hotel the evening we arrived; the others had arrived a few hours earlier and had gone off to find some dinner and have an explore. I was suddenly very tired; I wasn’t sure at the time whether it was the heat, or travelling, but I could not help but feel laidback and peaceful. This ambience was to last for all of our time on Lamu. I realised after a few days that the pace of life is so gentle and relaxing; the heat and humidity add to this too, (though there was a nice breeze for most of the time we were there), and that you can’t really do much on Lamu, and that’s fine! It was all so chilled and 'yeah, whatever, we’ll see what happens’; it was fantastic (though after 2 weeks I’d imagine it could get very frustrating). The ‘hakuna haraka’ (no rush) atmosphere of the island was very infectious. Needless to say that evening we went to bed early and slept well, even though I woke up and was a little disturbed at one point in the night, trying to work out what the hell that noise was (it was the donkeys braying). I don’t think the side-effects of my Lariam anti-malarial pill helped my confusion either. At least donkeys braying is better then cockerels squawking.
luggage is unloaded
luggage is unloaded
I wanted to do two things during my Christmas on Lamu; go to the donkey sanctuary (where old and sick donkeys go to retire) and visit the museum. The island was so relaxed; I ended up doing neither of them. At least that gives me an excuse to go back. Sadly, I didn’t even go on a donkey ride. I imagined it would be a little cruel; I joked that my feet would drag along the floor (however I probably would have been a lightweight compared to the loads they carry). They looked so sad, grumpy and bored. And much smaller than I imagined, or maybe I’ve grown since I last saw one.
The narrow winding streets of Lamu are perfect for donkey transportation. In fact on several occasions I had to quickly jump into a doorway when a gaggle (is that the right term?!) of donkeys came trotting past carrying things. One of our group told us that one morning he came across a group of local people watching two donkeys doing what animals do best, and suddenly understood where the phrase ‘hung like a donkey’ came from. Apparently the locals were doing their best to encourage the donkeys (verbally). We had a good in depth discussion too about why donkeys make that noise, which in the end was inconclusive; you’ll be pleased to know.
ceremonial wedding/fight dance thing
ceremonial wedding/fight dance thing
So some of the things we did do on Lamu, once we’d taken a day or two to relax properly and explore… Some of us went on a town tour with a guide who told us more about the history of the island. We saw some beautiful mosques, old Portuguese graves and impressive baobab trees. We walked through small markets and stopped to admire the workmanship of the intricate wooden Swahili doors.
We later visited the town fort, which used to be the jail. We heard that one of many ceremonies of a Swahili-Arabic wedding was due to take place in the fort one upcoming night. We were invited to go along and so turned up; one of our group managed to blag our way in to watch part of the ceremony (women only). It may have been a Muslim wedding but I am not one hundred percent sure. I do not know if it was an arranged marriage. The women were dressed so beautifully; when we arrived there were hundreds of women sitting on the floor of the huge square courtyard of the fort, watching another hundred or so women dancing slowly in the centre, in a huge circle. Then the bride entered and after lots of attention to her appearance from the party of women she was with (bridesmaids?), slowly walked down a red carpet to a stage area. Then all the women (except the bride and female family members I think) started to put their headscarves and black head to toe dresses on, over their beautiful dresses. The groom then entered with other men (best men? this is why the women had covered, because the men were joining); he slowly walked down the red carpet too and sat next to his new wife on a stage with beautiful fairy lights behind them. Then lots of people took their photos for quite some time, with lots of different members of the family. The bride had the patience of a saint and kept smiling throughout. We watched everyone dancing whilst the photos were being taken (though it was mostly women dancing) and were invited to join in the dancing, which we did, though I did feel a little awkward wearing jeans and a t-shirt with shawl (thanks, Rochdale for that ingenious buy; it made me feel a little more conspicuous at least). I am not sure what type the music was exactly, though it was coming from a sound system, but it sounded how I would describe Arabic-pop (?) and the younger girls were definitely enjoying it. People started to leave and everyone returned their empty glass soda bottles to the crates. The ceremony was fascinating and beautiful to watch, and to my surprise not too far away from my (be it some-what limited) experience of wedding ceremonies in the UK.
the hotel
the hotel
We walked to Shela beach twice, which is a beautiful long strip of beach with white sands that feel like warm silk under your toes; there are no sun-loungers, which is perfect (just take a towel and plonk it); and of course you can have a strip of the beach relatively to yourself, if you are prepared to continue walking a little. There were even a few camels prancing around the dunes in the background, near a sort of Swahili-Arabic castle on the beach. The sea was a lovely temperature, with no sea weed, though the current was noticeable, where we were. There are no waves because the beach is sort of on a creek between islands. It was a good 45 minute walk there, which in the heat meant it was often necessary to stop at a bar along the way for a soda. Sometimes it also meant getting a boat back, being such a relaxed place and all. The walk was very beautiful though; a gentle stroll along the seafront, looking at some of the impressive houses and donkeys and trees/plants on the way. Although a Muslim island, Lamu has its fair share of tourists and so I think the locals are used to visitors being scantily clad, and we definitely did not get any negative attention by showing too much flesh, thankfully.
my room
my room
One night there was a wedding party (maybe the same one as the one at the fort but a different party) going on literally behind the hotel and the music was on blaringly loud, until 4am. There was no point in sleeping. So we gathered and lounged on one of the balconies chatting and drinking and eating chocolate until the music had finished and we could sleep. The temperature was nice because of the cool breeze and the humidity of the day had dies away, but it was still warm enough for a t-shirt and maybe shawl. When I went up to the roofless balcony I was in awe with the night sky because the stars were breathtaking; I never knew there were so many. All the constellations I can recognise (2 then!) were in different positions. I could have stood there for hours and just stared upwards. I felt very small.
views from the rooftop of hotel
views from the rooftop of hotel
In terms of eating, you could get hold of pretty much anything you wanted, especially if you were willing to pay. We went to cheap Kenyan places some evenings and more expensive, Western style restaurants on others. I had seafood bolognaise one day that was incredibly good. And there are lots of good fruit juices on Lamu too, and they are especially good when you mix them up, e.g. banana and mango. A lot of the time we ended up in Petley’s bar at the end of the day. There aren’t actually many bars on Lamu as it is a Muslim island, but Petley’s filled the gap nicely. The only frustrating thing was all the beach boys (or any male trying to sell you something) watching you constantly or trying to chat you up, which after 30 minutes, gets very annoying, and sadly I much preferred drinking on the rooftop at out hotel to avoid this. I understood that people were making the most of the tourists this year, because the post-election violence this time last year meant that travelling was relatively unsafe in Kenya, and took its toll badly on tourism.
views from the hotel
views from the hotel
Over the 6 days on Lamu I went on 3 boat trips, (2 of which were dhow), all 3 in the space of 48 hours, which I think is quite impressive! Some of us went on a boat to Takwa ruins on Manda island. We had to sail past and then through mangroves (a type of tree/bush that grows in the shallow water, making a sort if impenetrable forest across the shallow creeks). As we were sailing along, you would glimpse breaks in the mangroves which I can only describe as a sort of maze of watery ginnels. I expected a crocodile to swim along at any point (though I don’t think they live there). We sort of timed the trip a little badly because the tide was too low for the boat to make it to the shore of Manda at the point of Takwa ruins, so the captain jumped out and started pulling all four of us (in the boat) towards the shore, which we couldn’t see. He eventually gave up and we waited for the tide to rise a little, taking the opportunity to soak up the rays, and in some cases, snooze a little. The tide didn’t really rise too much, so the captain pulled us along a little more and eventually asked us to get out and walk because the water was just above knee level and the shore was within sight. So out we got. The water was warm-ish but there was a sort of dark mud at the bottom of the water that was quite warm and sticky and felt very squidgy between the toes. You also sank quite quickly, which was alarming. So we all squelched our way to the shore, which eventually became sandy. However by this point the multiple blisters I’d acquired from the town tour and a lot of walking had filled up with the black mud and sand we’d been squelching in, which was quite painful. We reached the place where you paid to enter the ruins and I promptly plonked myself on a wonky bench and used my drinking water to rinse the blisters and squeeze all the mud out. Luckily I had brought plasters. But walking around the ruins was a little more painful than it should have been; and it was also ridiculously hot because we arrived at midday and the man who showed us around (who also sold us the tickets) was walking quite quickly. It was a shame because I was a little distracted from the ruins because I was hot and sweaty and in (slight) pain, the big girls’ blouse that I am. Takwa ruins are the remains of a Swahili town from 15th-17th century and for some reason the locals just left and the town was abandoned; it is believed residents moved over to Shela beach on Lamu. We saw the remains of mosques, homes and wells, close up; many taken over by baobab tress or thorny bushes. We were the only tourists there. It was lovely to be able to walk around and explore. We walked up a sand dune, from which we could see the amazing shoreline and beach, but I was so pooped and hot I decided to stay in a little hut at the top of the dune and enjoy the view. It was deserted and beautiful. The captain returned and had to explore the ruins to find us to take us back.
first impressions of lamu
first impressions of lamu
Once we were back on Lamu we met with the others and had a rest and then hopped on a dhow for a sunset trip, which was a much larger boat but looked much less reliable than the one we’d previously been on, though it had the typical large sail and a motor in addition. Members of the crew would stand on planks to balance the dhow, counteracting the sail to make sure it didn’t capsize. They encouraged the 15 of us on the boat to stand on the plank to help, 2 of whom did, to quite impressive and embarrassing results, respectively. We were told by the crew that there was water in the boat because it ‘sweats’. Hmmm. Luckily for me I can swim, if I needed to, which I didn’t. The crew were quite lively and sang as we sailed along, playing a drum or whatever other things they could bang on, trying to ensure we all had a fun time and the other dhows could hear us coming. We were offered coffee and a sort of wet Turkish delight, which was sticky but very sweet and lovely. We sailed around for maybe 90 minutes and watched the breathtaking sunset. Every moment the colours seemed to change as the sun set and cameras were clicking frequently. We also ended up having an impromptu boat race with another dhow, which resulted in some impressive photos.
narrow streets of Lamu
narrow streets of Lamu
Christmas day was one I will never truly forget. It was so un-Christmassy and far away from my usual Christmas, but I enjoyed it very much. I did miss family a lot, but the fact that it was quite un-Christmassy sort of stopped me from thinking about all the things I was missing at home, and this wasn’t a bad thing. Believe it or not I actually got sunburnt on Christmas day; most of us did. We woke up and had breakfast together about 8.30. The hotel had put up a small Christmas tree, which was kind of cute. We then went down to the sea front to catch the dhow that we had organised, which would be a day long trip past the mangroves to near Manda Island where we would be snorkelling in the reefs. This dhow was much bigger and the crew were more relaxed, shall we say. The reefs were quite impressive, though I’ve never been snorkelling in the ocean before so I’ve nothing to compare it to. Snorkelling felt quite strange at first, having to make a much greater effort to forcibly breathe in and get used to the feeling of being able to see and breathe whilst underwater. Towards the end I was trying to swim under water and snorkel, by holding your breath whilst under the water and shooting the water out of the pipe as you come up to the surface, with varying degrees of success. I saw quite a few fish, none of which I know the names of or will be able to describe to you very well. I saw some of the blue-grey ones with a yellow stripe, like Dory from ‘Finding Nemo’. I also saw I think a puffer fish (and thought aren’t they poisonous?). I saw two other large fish swimming slowly with big spines on their backs, well camouflaged into the reef and stayed well away. There were other large silver fish too and little ones that darted about. I was informed that there were no sharks. (!) What was more interesting was watching one of the crew from the boat snorkelling with a spear to catch our lunch! He was able to spot them and dive quite deep to spear them. Once he’d caught them he put them in a net attached to a rope from the boat. He even caught a puffer fish to take back to Lamu, apparently for the cats. It was puffed up (and obviously very dead) all the way home. Once we’d snorkelled there to our heart’s content we sailed off to a different part of the island, where there was a deserted white sandy shore very close, with shade to lie in from the trees, and a small hut. The fish were gutted and cooked on the boat by the crew over a small stove whilst we continued to snorkel (I think this is when I got burnt). The water was very warm and shallow and there was quite a strong current, which made snorkelling one way very easy but snorkelling back again very hard work. I felt like a small child at Christmas, ironically, or on a holiday, not wanting to get out of the swimming pool.
a typical lamu scene
a typical lamu scene
The fish tasted amazing. They also cooked us a veggie curry, which was beautiful. It was a very different but great Christmas lunch. We washed the plates in the ocean after eating; the leftovers of the fish were returned to where they had been happily swimming along an hour earlier. We pratted about on the beach for a little while, making a large sign on the shore from sticks, running across the hot sand to collect them and burning our feet in the process, saying ‘Happy Christmas VSO, Making a Difference’ (how ironic). We then set off for home, and after snoozing a little on the dhow, I plucked up the courage to climb up and sit on the roof of the boat, and the view was spectacular, one of those moments where you think, ‘I’ll never forget this in my life’ We traipsed back to the hotel, tired, hot but happy. I think the funniest point of my Christmas day, was after flooding the bathroom (yet again) after having a shower, I was putting on after-sun to cool my ever-pinkening skin and the phone happened to ring and it was family from home, calling at the time we’d arranged. Suddenly there was a power cut and I was stood there in darkness, semi-naked and greasy, hearing the donkeys braying outside, trying to hold a coherent conversation on the phone whilst simultaneously trying to find my head torch in the dark. Now that scenario would never happen at home. Talking with home was nice but strange, it made me realise again that it actually was Christmas day and all across the world people were celebrating Christmas in their different ways.
local donkey riding
local donkey riding
We had dinner at the hotel, which was a barbecue and buffet, which was actually a tad disappointing. By this point my post-sea-leg-sickness was really kicking in and even when I was sitting still, it felt like my whole body was rocking; it was very disconcerting, and this was before alcohol! The food wasn’t a touch on the lunch we’d had. We were all very tired too. We met all met after dinner on a balcony where we had bought drinks and spirits in advance and gave out our secret-santas, which we had agreed to spend a max of 200 shillings each. I just so happened to get Trixie and she happened to get me. She got me a turquoise and blue kanga, which is a sort of Swahili fabric that women wear around their waists and heads, sometimes as an apron, and a home-made Christmas card. The kangas all have a Swahili proverb or saying on them, though I can’t remember what it means now, my Swahili isn’t that good yet. I love the colour and pattern and it went very nicely with my bikini. I got her some earrings. Obviously some hard bargaining had been going on by us to get the most from the 200 shilling presents (just less than £2), and there were some very creative and memorable presents. Then one by one we dropped like flies and went to bed. I was actually very un-cool and watched Blackadder’s Christmas Carol on my laptop when I went to bed. That made me feel very Christmassy. Christmas just wouldn’t be Christmas for me without Blackadder’s Christmas carol. Some traditions never die eh?
" a man without a donkey, is a donkey"
So on the 26th we sadly had to leave Lamu on a plane bound for Malinidi, which is further south down the coast of Kenya, on which note I shall finish writing part 2 and commence with part 3! Thank you to those who sent me Christmas cards and messages, I picked them when I arrived back in the New Year; I was very happy and touched by them. I still have the cards on the wall in my room. And many thanks to Trixie for her snap-happy-photo-taking, producing some beautiful images that I’ve stolen for this blog! I think I realised how important it is to appreciate family and friends and spend time with them over the Christmas season, rather than all the hype and materialism; you really don’t need that at all; although it’s hard when it’s being forced-fed to us in the media months beforehand. I look forward to making up for the 2 Christmases I will have missed and they will be even more special to me!
part of the story...
We arrived on Manda island (Lamu has no landing strip/airport) about 5pm and as soon as we got off the plane we could feel the wonderful heat. We walked down the steps from the plane and ambled slowly over to another area, taking in the landscape. Our luggage was taken from the plane onto carts and pulled by men over to where we were waiting and the carts were unloaded. People then just picked up their bags and wandered off. What followed would be the best and most surreal airport transfer I have ever known. We walked away from the landing strip about 10 minutes towards the jetty, where long motor boats were waiting for us to take us to Lamu island. The trip over was pretty dreamlike; the sun was not far off setting and most people on the boat were silently stunned. We gently chugged across the stretch of water absorbing the warm sun and relative humidity. As we approached, I can only describe what looked like a random location from Pirates of the Caribbean crossed with a more modern market scene from Indiana Jones. The architecture along the seafront was sort of Arabic/Portuguese/Spanish/Moorish/Indian (you know what I mean?), I don’t know how else to describe it! There were lots of people who appeared to be waiting at the jetty. We clambered from the boat with the help of the boatmen onto the slippery steps and climbed up. Arriving on Lamu was a sort of pleasant assault of the senses; what with the eye-catching architecture, beautiful sunset scenery, what appeared to be a throng of people (who quite obviously and intriguingly lived completely different lives and cultures to me), bobbing moored dhows (traditional Swahili sailing boats) and donkeys (donkey is the main form of transport on the island, there are only 2 motor vehicles I think, one of which is the district officer’s, and a tractor).
arriving on manda island
arriving on manda island
Various people were asking if we needed help with bags and offering to show us the way to our hotel, but thankfully we had bumped into someone who worked at our hotel when we arrived at the airport, so the others sort of backed off (they work on a commission basis I believe). The man from our hotel carried our heavier bags the 10 minute walk to where we would be staying. On the way he pointed out a traditional wedding dance between 2 men, who were sort of fighting (in an amicable, look-at-us sort of way) with wooden sticks (maybe mangroves?) to music whilst onlookers made a circle around them to watch. Walking to the hotel from the sea front was fascinating, a little like stepping back in time; walking through a maze of narrow winding streets and thinking I’d never be able to find my way back to the sea front (though of course it was second nature within a few days). There were gutters running down the side of the narrow streets for drainage (though not sewage, thankfully) and sometimes the gutters ran across the paths so you had to be careful where you were watching, especially at night. The walls were partly made from coral. In the shade of the houses it was much cooler. What with donkey poo all over the place, the smell was quite interesting but unnoticeable after a few days. And very now and then you caught a glimpse of a skinny cat disappearing down a dark narrow street.
view from the jetty
view from the jetty
We arrived at the hotel and were shown to the tables by the small pool and given fresh juice; then shown to our rooms. The hotel we stayed at was lovely (though the drainage for the shower in my en-suite didn’t work too well, I kept flooding the whole bathroom, but people repeatedly tried their best unsuccessfully to fix it). The hotel was a beautiful labyrinth of rooms and stairs, with sort of verandas with sofas and chairs where you could lounge, snooze or chat, dotted all over the place. Often you could hear people, but couldn’t see or find them, unless you went up some stairs, then down some, round the corner and up some more etc! My room had a sort of four poster wooden bed, but with a mosquito net instead of hanging fabric, and a fan, that I was very grateful for because it kept the mosquitoes away and kept me cool during the humid nights! When I arrived the bed was decorated with real small pretty flowers; it had great romance potential! My saloon style window looked onto some narrow backstreets with more donkeys.
the transfer!
the transfer!
Once we had unpacked, we met with 6 of the other VSOs, who we were going to spend Christmas with. I had only met one of them before, who I met at the VSO Preparing to Volunteer course in Birmingham; she emailed me about the whole trip in advance of me leaving England and invited me along. She had organised the whole holiday with one of the others, for which we were all very grateful; many thanks to them! The VSOs we joined are mostly working around Mombasa. A day later two others joined us to complete our party of 10. We were more girls than boys, but this didn’t cause a problem. We were all different ages and the majority from the UK, but we all had differing amounts of experience of working/travelling abroad so it was nice to share experiences. Most of them had arrived in Kenya mid October, so we were all relative newbies to VSO Kenya. We all got on remarkably well and it was nice to be able to spend different days with different people; I think if it was a smaller group it could have been more difficult. We didn’t get bored of each other’s company because we were quite a large group. I am grateful to have spent what could have been a difficult and strange Christmas away from home with such lovely and down to earth people.
approaching Lamu
approaching Lamu
Trixie and I had dinner at the hotel the evening we arrived; the others had arrived a few hours earlier and had gone off to find some dinner and have an explore. I was suddenly very tired; I wasn’t sure at the time whether it was the heat, or travelling, but I could not help but feel laidback and peaceful. This ambience was to last for all of our time on Lamu. I realised after a few days that the pace of life is so gentle and relaxing; the heat and humidity add to this too, (though there was a nice breeze for most of the time we were there), and that you can’t really do much on Lamu, and that’s fine! It was all so chilled and 'yeah, whatever, we’ll see what happens’; it was fantastic (though after 2 weeks I’d imagine it could get very frustrating). The ‘hakuna haraka’ (no rush) atmosphere of the island was very infectious. Needless to say that evening we went to bed early and slept well, even though I woke up and was a little disturbed at one point in the night, trying to work out what the hell that noise was (it was the donkeys braying). I don’t think the side-effects of my Lariam anti-malarial pill helped my confusion either. At least donkeys braying is better then cockerels squawking.
luggage is unloaded
luggage is unloaded
I wanted to do two things during my Christmas on Lamu; go to the donkey sanctuary (where old and sick donkeys go to retire) and visit the museum. The island was so relaxed; I ended up doing neither of them. At least that gives me an excuse to go back. Sadly, I didn’t even go on a donkey ride. I imagined it would be a little cruel; I joked that my feet would drag along the floor (however I probably would have been a lightweight compared to the loads they carry). They looked so sad, grumpy and bored. And much smaller than I imagined, or maybe I’ve grown since I last saw one.
The narrow winding streets of Lamu are perfect for donkey transportation. In fact on several occasions I had to quickly jump into a doorway when a gaggle (is that the right term?!) of donkeys came trotting past carrying things. One of our group told us that one morning he came across a group of local people watching two donkeys doing what animals do best, and suddenly understood where the phrase ‘hung like a donkey’ came from. Apparently the locals were doing their best to encourage the donkeys (verbally). We had a good in depth discussion too about why donkeys make that noise, which in the end was inconclusive; you’ll be pleased to know.
ceremonial wedding/fight dance thing
ceremonial wedding/fight dance thing
So some of the things we did do on Lamu, once we’d taken a day or two to relax properly and explore… Some of us went on a town tour with a guide who told us more about the history of the island. We saw some beautiful mosques, old Portuguese graves and impressive baobab trees. We walked through small markets and stopped to admire the workmanship of the intricate wooden Swahili doors.
We later visited the town fort, which used to be the jail. We heard that one of many ceremonies of a Swahili-Arabic wedding was due to take place in the fort one upcoming night. We were invited to go along and so turned up; one of our group managed to blag our way in to watch part of the ceremony (women only). It may have been a Muslim wedding but I am not one hundred percent sure. I do not know if it was an arranged marriage. The women were dressed so beautifully; when we arrived there were hundreds of women sitting on the floor of the huge square courtyard of the fort, watching another hundred or so women dancing slowly in the centre, in a huge circle. Then the bride entered and after lots of attention to her appearance from the party of women she was with (bridesmaids?), slowly walked down a red carpet to a stage area. Then all the women (except the bride and female family members I think) started to put their headscarves and black head to toe dresses on, over their beautiful dresses. The groom then entered with other men (best men? this is why the women had covered, because the men were joining); he slowly walked down the red carpet too and sat next to his new wife on a stage with beautiful fairy lights behind them. Then lots of people took their photos for quite some time, with lots of different members of the family. The bride had the patience of a saint and kept smiling throughout. We watched everyone dancing whilst the photos were being taken (though it was mostly women dancing) and were invited to join in the dancing, which we did, though I did feel a little awkward wearing jeans and a t-shirt with shawl (thanks, Rochdale for that ingenious buy; it made me feel a little more conspicuous at least). I am not sure what type the music was exactly, though it was coming from a sound system, but it sounded how I would describe Arabic-pop (?) and the younger girls were definitely enjoying it. People started to leave and everyone returned their empty glass soda bottles to the crates. The ceremony was fascinating and beautiful to watch, and to my surprise not too far away from my (be it some-what limited) experience of wedding ceremonies in the UK.
the hotel
the hotel
We walked to Shela beach twice, which is a beautiful long strip of beach with white sands that feel like warm silk under your toes; there are no sun-loungers, which is perfect (just take a towel and plonk it); and of course you can have a strip of the beach relatively to yourself, if you are prepared to continue walking a little. There were even a few camels prancing around the dunes in the background, near a sort of Swahili-Arabic castle on the beach. The sea was a lovely temperature, with no sea weed, though the current was noticeable, where we were. There are no waves because the beach is sort of on a creek between islands. It was a good 45 minute walk there, which in the heat meant it was often necessary to stop at a bar along the way for a soda. Sometimes it also meant getting a boat back, being such a relaxed place and all. The walk was very beautiful though; a gentle stroll along the seafront, looking at some of the impressive houses and donkeys and trees/plants on the way. Although a Muslim island, Lamu has its fair share of tourists and so I think the locals are used to visitors being scantily clad, and we definitely did not get any negative attention by showing too much flesh, thankfully.
my room
my room
One night there was a wedding party (maybe the same one as the one at the fort but a different party) going on literally behind the hotel and the music was on blaringly loud, until 4am. There was no point in sleeping. So we gathered and lounged on one of the balconies chatting and drinking and eating chocolate until the music had finished and we could sleep. The temperature was nice because of the cool breeze and the humidity of the day had dies away, but it was still warm enough for a t-shirt and maybe shawl. When I went up to the roofless balcony I was in awe with the night sky because the stars were breathtaking; I never knew there were so many. All the constellations I can recognise (2 then!) were in different positions. I could have stood there for hours and just stared upwards. I felt very small.
views from the rooftop of hotel
views from the rooftop of hotel
In terms of eating, you could get hold of pretty much anything you wanted, especially if you were willing to pay. We went to cheap Kenyan places some evenings and more expensive, Western style restaurants on others. I had seafood bolognaise one day that was incredibly good. And there are lots of good fruit juices on Lamu too, and they are especially good when you mix them up, e.g. banana and mango. A lot of the time we ended up in Petley’s bar at the end of the day. There aren’t actually many bars on Lamu as it is a Muslim island, but Petley’s filled the gap nicely. The only frustrating thing was all the beach boys (or any male trying to sell you something) watching you constantly or trying to chat you up, which after 30 minutes, gets very annoying, and sadly I much preferred drinking on the rooftop at out hotel to avoid this. I understood that people were making the most of the tourists this year, because the post-election violence this time last year meant that travelling was relatively unsafe in Kenya, and took its toll badly on tourism.
views from the hotel
views from the hotel
Over the 6 days on Lamu I went on 3 boat trips, (2 of which were dhow), all 3 in the space of 48 hours, which I think is quite impressive! Some of us went on a boat to Takwa ruins on Manda island. We had to sail past and then through mangroves (a type of tree/bush that grows in the shallow water, making a sort if impenetrable forest across the shallow creeks). As we were sailing along, you would glimpse breaks in the mangroves which I can only describe as a sort of maze of watery ginnels. I expected a crocodile to swim along at any point (though I don’t think they live there). We sort of timed the trip a little badly because the tide was too low for the boat to make it to the shore of Manda at the point of Takwa ruins, so the captain jumped out and started pulling all four of us (in the boat) towards the shore, which we couldn’t see. He eventually gave up and we waited for the tide to rise a little, taking the opportunity to soak up the rays, and in some cases, snooze a little. The tide didn’t really rise too much, so the captain pulled us along a little more and eventually asked us to get out and walk because the water was just above knee level and the shore was within sight. So out we got. The water was warm-ish but there was a sort of dark mud at the bottom of the water that was quite warm and sticky and felt very squidgy between the toes. You also sank quite quickly, which was alarming. So we all squelched our way to the shore, which eventually became sandy. However by this point the multiple blisters I’d acquired from the town tour and a lot of walking had filled up with the black mud and sand we’d been squelching in, which was quite painful. We reached the place where you paid to enter the ruins and I promptly plonked myself on a wonky bench and used my drinking water to rinse the blisters and squeeze all the mud out. Luckily I had brought plasters. But walking around the ruins was a little more painful than it should have been; and it was also ridiculously hot because we arrived at midday and the man who showed us around (who also sold us the tickets) was walking quite quickly. It was a shame because I was a little distracted from the ruins because I was hot and sweaty and in (slight) pain, the big girls’ blouse that I am. Takwa ruins are the remains of a Swahili town from 15th-17th century and for some reason the locals just left and the town was abandoned; it is believed residents moved over to Shela beach on Lamu. We saw the remains of mosques, homes and wells, close up; many taken over by baobab tress or thorny bushes. We were the only tourists there. It was lovely to be able to walk around and explore. We walked up a sand dune, from which we could see the amazing shoreline and beach, but I was so pooped and hot I decided to stay in a little hut at the top of the dune and enjoy the view. It was deserted and beautiful. The captain returned and had to explore the ruins to find us to take us back.
first impressions of lamu
first impressions of lamu
Once we were back on Lamu we met with the others and had a rest and then hopped on a dhow for a sunset trip, which was a much larger boat but looked much less reliable than the one we’d previously been on, though it had the typical large sail and a motor in addition. Members of the crew would stand on planks to balance the dhow, counteracting the sail to make sure it didn’t capsize. They encouraged the 15 of us on the boat to stand on the plank to help, 2 of whom did, to quite impressive and embarrassing results, respectively. We were told by the crew that there was water in the boat because it ‘sweats’. Hmmm. Luckily for me I can swim, if I needed to, which I didn’t. The crew were quite lively and sang as we sailed along, playing a drum or whatever other things they could bang on, trying to ensure we all had a fun time and the other dhows could hear us coming. We were offered coffee and a sort of wet Turkish delight, which was sticky but very sweet and lovely. We sailed around for maybe 90 minutes and watched the breathtaking sunset. Every moment the colours seemed to change as the sun set and cameras were clicking frequently. We also ended up having an impromptu boat race with another dhow, which resulted in some impressive photos.
narrow streets of Lamu
narrow streets of Lamu
Christmas day was one I will never truly forget. It was so un-Christmassy and far away from my usual Christmas, but I enjoyed it very much. I did miss family a lot, but the fact that it was quite un-Christmassy sort of stopped me from thinking about all the things I was missing at home, and this wasn’t a bad thing. Believe it or not I actually got sunburnt on Christmas day; most of us did. We woke up and had breakfast together about 8.30. The hotel had put up a small Christmas tree, which was kind of cute. We then went down to the sea front to catch the dhow that we had organised, which would be a day long trip past the mangroves to near Manda Island where we would be snorkelling in the reefs. This dhow was much bigger and the crew were more relaxed, shall we say. The reefs were quite impressive, though I’ve never been snorkelling in the ocean before so I’ve nothing to compare it to. Snorkelling felt quite strange at first, having to make a much greater effort to forcibly breathe in and get used to the feeling of being able to see and breathe whilst underwater. Towards the end I was trying to swim under water and snorkel, by holding your breath whilst under the water and shooting the water out of the pipe as you come up to the surface, with varying degrees of success. I saw quite a few fish, none of which I know the names of or will be able to describe to you very well. I saw some of the blue-grey ones with a yellow stripe, like Dory from ‘Finding Nemo’. I also saw I think a puffer fish (and thought aren’t they poisonous?). I saw two other large fish swimming slowly with big spines on their backs, well camouflaged into the reef and stayed well away. There were other large silver fish too and little ones that darted about. I was informed that there were no sharks. (!) What was more interesting was watching one of the crew from the boat snorkelling with a spear to catch our lunch! He was able to spot them and dive quite deep to spear them. Once he’d caught them he put them in a net attached to a rope from the boat. He even caught a puffer fish to take back to Lamu, apparently for the cats. It was puffed up (and obviously very dead) all the way home. Once we’d snorkelled there to our heart’s content we sailed off to a different part of the island, where there was a deserted white sandy shore very close, with shade to lie in from the trees, and a small hut. The fish were gutted and cooked on the boat by the crew over a small stove whilst we continued to snorkel (I think this is when I got burnt). The water was very warm and shallow and there was quite a strong current, which made snorkelling one way very easy but snorkelling back again very hard work. I felt like a small child at Christmas, ironically, or on a holiday, not wanting to get out of the swimming pool.
a typical lamu scene
a typical lamu scene
The fish tasted amazing. They also cooked us a veggie curry, which was beautiful. It was a very different but great Christmas lunch. We washed the plates in the ocean after eating; the leftovers of the fish were returned to where they had been happily swimming along an hour earlier. We pratted about on the beach for a little while, making a large sign on the shore from sticks, running across the hot sand to collect them and burning our feet in the process, saying ‘Happy Christmas VSO, Making a Difference’ (how ironic). We then set off for home, and after snoozing a little on the dhow, I plucked up the courage to climb up and sit on the roof of the boat, and the view was spectacular, one of those moments where you think, ‘I’ll never forget this in my life’ We traipsed back to the hotel, tired, hot but happy. I think the funniest point of my Christmas day, was after flooding the bathroom (yet again) after having a shower, I was putting on after-sun to cool my ever-pinkening skin and the phone happened to ring and it was family from home, calling at the time we’d arranged. Suddenly there was a power cut and I was stood there in darkness, semi-naked and greasy, hearing the donkeys braying outside, trying to hold a coherent conversation on the phone whilst simultaneously trying to find my head torch in the dark. Now that scenario would never happen at home. Talking with home was nice but strange, it made me realise again that it actually was Christmas day and all across the world people were celebrating Christmas in their different ways.
local donkey riding
local donkey riding
We had dinner at the hotel, which was a barbecue and buffet, which was actually a tad disappointing. By this point my post-sea-leg-sickness was really kicking in and even when I was sitting still, it felt like my whole body was rocking; it was very disconcerting, and this was before alcohol! The food wasn’t a touch on the lunch we’d had. We were all very tired too. We met all met after dinner on a balcony where we had bought drinks and spirits in advance and gave out our secret-santas, which we had agreed to spend a max of 200 shillings each. I just so happened to get Trixie and she happened to get me. She got me a turquoise and blue kanga, which is a sort of Swahili fabric that women wear around their waists and heads, sometimes as an apron, and a home-made Christmas card. The kangas all have a Swahili proverb or saying on them, though I can’t remember what it means now, my Swahili isn’t that good yet. I love the colour and pattern and it went very nicely with my bikini. I got her some earrings. Obviously some hard bargaining had been going on by us to get the most from the 200 shilling presents (just less than £2), and there were some very creative and memorable presents. Then one by one we dropped like flies and went to bed. I was actually very un-cool and watched Blackadder’s Christmas Carol on my laptop when I went to bed. That made me feel very Christmassy. Christmas just wouldn’t be Christmas for me without Blackadder’s Christmas carol. Some traditions never die eh?
" a man without a donkey, is a donkey"
So on the 26th we sadly had to leave Lamu on a plane bound for Malinidi, which is further south down the coast of Kenya, on which note I shall finish writing part 2 and commence with part 3! Thank you to those who sent me Christmas cards and messages, I picked them when I arrived back in the New Year; I was very happy and touched by them. I still have the cards on the wall in my room. And many thanks to Trixie for her snap-happy-photo-taking, producing some beautiful images that I’ve stolen for this blog! I think I realised how important it is to appreciate family and friends and spend time with them over the Christmas season, rather than all the hype and materialism; you really don’t need that at all; although it’s hard when it’s being forced-fed to us in the media months beforehand. I look forward to making up for the 2 Christmases I will have missed and they will be even more special to me!
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